TtD Languedoc 2011 & Vinalba Reserva 2010

Grape: Grenache, Marsanne, Vermentino,
              Viogner
Price: £9
From: Sainsbury's
Country: France
Region: Languedoc
ABV: 13.5%

The two wines I have chosen for this review are both blends which can be argued as being the best grapes from their respective regions.  Even as a die hard fan of varietal wines, I hugely appreciate blending as a true artisan skill.  A miscalculation of a mere 5% of the wrong grape can overbalance the mix and turn the whole vat into something you wouldn't put on your chips.  A great waste of time and resources, not to mention lovely wine!

Sainsbury's have teamed up with Jean-Claude Mas of Domaines Paul Mas to help find the right blend for this Taste the Difference white.  I have been fortunate to have sampled a large selection of wines from this producer and have even reviewed one in the past.  One thing for sure is that I have yet to come across a Paul Mas wine that doesn't please.  I had high hopes before even opening the bottle but knew I was in safe hands (any rugby fans out there?)

On the nose this wine is very light-hearted with crisp lemon tinged with sweetness; almost like lemon meringue.  A very simple smell, accompanied with background floral aromatics which help to indicate further layers of structure to come, without overcomplicating.  To taste, the first attack is reasonably complex, with the awareness of a smooth texture coming across with walnut and warm butter.  Secondly, the lemon can be felt in overtones with a lining of sweetness coming from gentler citrus such as tangerine, but only in the background; this wine is very much of the dry variety.  Tertiary indications of flint or limestone can also be detected as the aftertaste develops however, it does decay a little right at the end.  Overall, a great refreshing drink with a surprising depth.  

I wouldn't hesitate giving it another try (sorry, couldn't help myself).

Grape:     Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, 
                  Merlot
Price:       £10
From:       Sainsbury's
Country:  Argentina
Region:   Mendoza
ABV:       14.5%

Vinalba and I have a bit of a history together.  It has been a companion of mine with many a meal or late night film.  The quality in this bottle came as no surprise to me when I tried it.  In fact, the only surprise came from realising that I haven't already reviewed wines from this producer; something that I intend to rectify in the next few years.

The grapes used are three french powerhouses which are given the new world treatment of oodles more sun and a higher elevation from sea level.  Oak ageing provides further body and muscle to what is a very robust and intense, earthy red wine that commands respect, and by the look of the award insignia in the top right corner, is getting it!

Cassis, dark cherry and raisins come across foremost in a strong fusion of red and dark fruits which are difficult to isolate and identify in their entirety as there appears to be many.  Almost in tandem is strong, resinous tones of wood, perhaps cedar or pine, followed by a fistful of earth which is quite easily detectable at the periphery.  To taste, it is full bodied with a rigid structure.  Strong and firm tannins grab for attention immediately before giving over to blackberry, black currant and other dark bramble fruits.  Ever present in the background is an earth or soil impression that further exacerbates the masculinity of the wine.  The aftertaste is powerful with dark chocolate becoming apparent and the firm structure and tannins holding well for 10-15 seconds after swallowing.

This wine is excellent quality and the fortitude immediately lends itself to being a wine that would go well with food.  Anything that walks on four legs would be a good place to start.

Sainsbury's have numerous stores throughout the UK and can also be found online at www.sainsburys.co.uk

Mirambelo 2010 & Biblos Falanghina 2011

Grape:     Kotsifali, Mandilaria
Price:       £9.25
From:       Oddbins
Country:  Crete
Region:    Peza
ABV:         13%

This week I am happy to review two outstanding wines that have come from Oddbins.  A large leap away from the more common grapes, these two bottles contain varieties that are less known, however, especially in the case of the white wine, do have a fairly accessible presence in the market place.  I must confess that the grapes that make up this week's red were previously completely unknown to me and I had to do some digging to find out more about them.  All you need to do though is become inspired by my review (hopefully) then go out and buy the wine.  I guarantee, you will enjoy them.

Mirambelo is made from a blend of Kotsifali and Mandilaria which is Crete's indigenous version of Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot or Marsanne/Roussanne.  Two grapes that form a symbiotic relationship which makes the whole greater than the sum of its parts.  Kotsifali brings soft fruit, alcohol and spices, however, isn't well structured and the colour is difficult to obtain from the skins.  Mandilaria fills these gaps by adding texture and tannins but isn't very alcoholic and is often too harsh to drink as a varietal.  Together however, these bed fellows create a wine that produces rich, intense flavours that are difficult to come by at this price.

On the nose the Mirambelo readily gives deep lungfuls of dark red fruit to anyone happy to stick their nose into the glass.  Plum, black cherry and blackberry are easy to pick out.  Ground black pepper and aniseed are apparent in the periphery.  To taste, the wine delivers everything expected.  Ardent red fruits of strawberries, ripened plums, damson and blackberry are first on the palate with a strong alcohol feel.  The tannins are strong but balanced and permissive enough to allow the fruit to remain very much the centre of attention.  The aftertaste on this full bodied red is surprisingly short lived although the tannins do hang on to entertain the tongue and gums for a while longer.  A truly awesome wine that knocks the pants off the competition.

Grape:             Falanghina (Beneventana)
Price:               £11
From:               Oddbins
Country:          Italy
Region:            Molise
ABV:                13%

In terms of slightly different, this white fits right in with me.    The back story found on Oddbins' web page speaks of vampires who found their way to the shores of Italy across Europe before the Pope could bless the sea in an attempt to keep them out .  It was left to the locals to defend themselves and the people of Molise were apparently very adept at making steaks (in Latin falangae) which they promptly used on their unwanted visitors.  When the Lost Boys had been dealt with, the steaks were used to support the local vines.  The name Falanghina is a tip of the hat to those steaks of Molise.  True or not, I don't care but I do note this wine takes no chances and is named after the holy book itself.

On the nose the first to come are gentle but pronounced apricots, nectarine and orange with a slight reference to more zesty citrus.  Secondary smells include a very faint grassy edge which blends very well with an equally faint mineral texture, giving the fruit a backbone.  On the palate the fruit comes to the fore but brings a distinct salinity.  The taste is medium bodied crisp and the acid and salt do contrast with each other but have a great balance which leads to a pleasing taste.  The salt remains well into the aftertaste, which is fairly short.  This is an impressive dry alternative and the uncommon saltiness helps to provide a greatly satisfying mouth feel.

Oddbins have 35 stores throughout the UK, concentrated in London and the Scottish cities.  Manchester is served by their own store in Chorlton.  You can also find Oddbins on line at www.oddbins.com

Amanti del Vino Primitivo '10 & Marques de Caceres Viura '11

Grape:             Primitivo

Price:               £8

From:               Portland Wines

Country:          Italy

Region:            Puglia

ABV:                13%

A common trait of the wino is the never ending desire to find the new, different and exciting.  When someone recommends something that you haven't tried before and they do it with such gusto, there hardly seems any reason to knock the suggestion back.  The two I chose this week are previous recommendations given to me and have been on a list that seems to get longer, no matter the effort to shorten it!

First up is this typically Italian Primitivo, an ancient Italian grape with origins in Puglia, the same region that this wine was produced.  The Primitivo grape is also known as Zinfandel across the Atlantic (as well as several other names) and while examples of wine from both side of the pond are high in alcohol and acidity, the latter tends to be more evident in the actual drinking of Primitivo and is something that makes it recognisable as a European wine, whereas a Zinfandel from California, for example, will have the same attributes but the taste will be consumed with bursting, powerful red fruits throughout.  Once again, a great example of how environment, micro-climate, or dare I say....'terrior' affects the same grape (I feel as though I just crossed a line).

On the nose this red is very fruit driven with strong tones of overripe blackberry, cherry and strawberry.  A distinct lack of wood or any accompanying spices was disarming, however, the fruit does more than enough to keep one interested.  On the palate, the first attack is surprisingly mellow but retains all the fruit described above.  Similarly to the smell, the taste is all about the red fruits and the absence of other influences helps to concentrate the taste buds.  The taste develops quickly and finishes with a slightly sour cherry finish which is sometimes quite notable in Italian wines.  Medium bodied and high in acidity, this wine provides a welcome difference to oaky reds and the level of acidity leads me to consider this may be a good wine to try slightly chilled.

Grape:        Viura

Price:          £8

From:          Portland Wines

Country:     Spain

Region:       Rioja

ABV:           12.5%

This week's white is made from the Viura grape and is more commonly known as White Rioja.  Up until the 1980's it was generally made by barrel fermentation which added a layer of complexity and structure which provided flavours of toast, dough and vanilla which was derived from the oak in the cask.  At some point when neon colours were in fashion and Kelly LeBrock from Weird Science was all men could think about, tastes shifted and the Spanish market responded by leaving out the barrel ageing to create a lighter, drier wine which could be produced in higher quantities because of a better yield. Maybe a move to compete with the growing popularity of Chardonnay at the time.

This wine is very clean on the nose with crisp and pronounced sharp citrus notes, alongside a discrete wet granite influence.  Both myself and Mrs Everyman believed we also caught telltale signs of lees, which has a slightly buttery edge, although this was incredibly faint.

The taste is intensely refreshing with the first hit going to acuate lemon citrus which underlines the high acidity and dryness.  Served chilled, this sensation remains consistent throughout and well into the lengthy aftertaste.  This winemaker has a consistent high quality approach to all their wines and this is no exception.  If you close your eyes and squint a little before taking a sip, you can almost imagine yourself sat in the sunshine.

Portland Wines have several stores in the South Manchester/Cheshire area and can be found at www.portlandwine.co.uk

Chateau de Targe 2012 & Marquis de Pennautier 2010

Grape:         Cabernet Franc

Price:           £6.66 (on offer)

From:           Majestic Wines

Country:      France

Region:       Saumur-Champigny, Loire

ABV:            13%

This bevvy of beauties comes from Majestic Wines and is currently in their 'Bargain Hunt' promotion.  Both normally priced at around a tenner, this current push sees the price of both bottles plunge to ridiculously low prices, especially considering the quality of the wine inside (No, I'm not on commission, although maybe I should be. Hint hint).

First up is this Cabernet Franc that claims it's home in the Loire Valley, even though it is grown throughout Bordeaux and beyond.  Cabernet Franc is a new grape to get the Everyman treatment, however, the grape itself is really, really old.  The parent of Cabernet Sauvignon, this grape has long since been associated with great quality wines from the Loire Valley, which stretches horizontally across France from the Atlantic, just below Brittany to the South West of Paris.  It also just so happens to be where I am going on my jollies this year!

Bright ruby in colour, even after 3 years behind cork, the nose is captured by fresh and youthful red fruits, such as strawberries and raspberries.  Not heavy at all, the smell is complimented by faint tones of cedar wood along with an indistinct sweetness that reminds me of chocolate or vanilla.

On the palate it is warm, smooth and medium bodied with a reasonably high acidity that helps to create a wine of lighter proportions, but has the gravitas of a good red wine with 'glugability' (is that a word?...it is now).  Tannins are present throughout and are more prevalent on the back end and aftertaste, and help to provide a good platform for the dying flavours of spice.  Overall, well worth buying, especially at current prices but I would also look out for it after the promotion.

Grape:       Chardonnay

Price:         £6.66 (on offer)

From:         Majestic Wines

Country:    France

Region:      Languedoc-Roussillon

ABV:           13.5%

This wine is a Chardonnay from the south of France.  As mentioned in a previous review, this versatile grape reflects the soils it is grown in and is influenced by the general temperature as the grapes ripen.  To quote Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding and Jose Vouillamoz in their joint book, ...capable of extreme mediocrity and regal splendour...a poignant quote which sums up all that is great, and not so great about this grape.

This particular bottle certainly errs towards the latter description and displays wonderful fragrant tones of peach and nectarine, combined with a rich and leesy texture which excites the senses and raises expectations of the taste.  Lastly, I did track some more herbaceous or grassy notes, however, these were very faint and only became more noticable as the wine slowly climbed towards a more ambient temperature.

On the palate, this wine is light and friendly with a great balance between acidity and the added structure that comes from oak ageing and stirring the lees (the remaining bits left after pressing) during fermentation.  The main attack belongs to white stone fruit and remains so throughout the length of the taste.  The aftertaste is a little quiet but provides a gentle tingle on the lips and a nod towards ground white pepper before dissappearing under the radar again.  The combination of the fruit along with the crisp acidity and more complex background provide a very drinkable wine with a fantastic attitude. 

Majestic have numerous stores throughout the UK and have extended their reach into France.  

Offering a home delivery service also, Majestic can be found at www.majestic.co.uk

 

d'Arenberg 'The Money Spider' Roussanne 2010

Grape:     Roussanne
Price:       £14.50
From:       Spirited Wines
Country:  Australia
Region:    McLaren Vale
ABV:         13.2% 

This week's choice is really going to test the resolution of you who are detoxing, dieting, cutting down, eliminating or doing something that deprives you of something you like....that is, of course if you are still on the straight and narrow and haven't strayed already! 

For those of you not bothering or yet to start, I have a real treat in store.

Last year's review of Roussanne opened my eyes to this truly wonderful grape and I have been in pursuit of other excellent examples ever since.  The Money Spider has been suggested several times and people have been only too happy to provide a brief description which always had the sound, 'Mmmm' lodged somewhere in the conversation.  General opinion certainly indicates the Money Spider is the archetypal example of Roussanne and even looking this grape up on Wikipedia will show you a picture of this bottle.

It wasn't until a recent chance encounter that I found this wine, however, I have come across other d'Arenberg wines which have been lovingly consumed.  The Laughing Magpie, the Hermit Crab, the Custodian, the Dead Arm and the Galvo Garage to name but a few; each bottle with an intriguing name and displaying the distinctive diagonal red stripe which mirrors the d'Arenberg coat of arms.

The nose is intense with a nutty, buttery texture, followed by cream and Riesling type indications of petroleum.  To taste, this wine has elegance and power and the intensity of the nose is perfectly matched on the palate.  Subtle layers of honeysuckle and cooked apple are also detectable with a change to fresh pear in the long, clean aftertaste.  This is a well pronounced, medium bodied wine that balances acidity with a richness of flavours.  Surprisingly complex in one so relatively young but a truly awesome and memorable drink.

Spirited Wines have a number of stores around the UK and can also be found on line at www.spiritedwines.co.uk

A Quintessential Quartet for, erm........Quistmas

Greetings, salutations, felicitations and warmest wishes for the festive season!  As the big day steadily marches forward, the time for preparations is starting to wane.  I hope by now, you have the present buying under control and the house suitably decorated?  Good.  Let's turn our attention to the next important job.

This week's review is a little different.  I have been busy sampling tasty tipples in the search of great recommendations in the hope you may be tempted to put one or two down on your Christmas shopping list.  I have taken a pragmatic approach and decided to select wines from the same place so that sourcing these wines doesn't become a chore either.  If you like the sound of them, I could also have the Christmas booze covered from every angle.  So, without further ado, I bring you my very own special Christmas review of four Sainsbury's wines.......

Name:        Sainsbury's Blanc de Noirs 

                   Champage

Grape:       Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier

Price:         c. £21

Country:    France

Region:     Champagne

ABV:          12% 

Whether it is to be opened on Christmas morning or just to be had in the house for whenever the feeling arises, bubbles are an essential festive ingredient.  Finding the right fizz is important as a costly bottle with nothing to offer could make the magic morning a bit flat, whereas a good drink will make the day sparkle.  Have I overdone the bubble based metaphors yet?

 

Made from the two black grapes that make up Champagne, this Blanc de Noirs (meaning White of Blacks) from Sainsbury's is really quite special.  On the nose are distinctive buttery notes, accompanied by fresh dough or hot toast.  Working in parallel is crisp and fresh green apples along with sweet hints of red fruit and strawberry.  A very pleasing combination.  To taste, it is beautifully dry, crisp and refreshing.  The 'Brut' badge earns it's keep but the hint of red fruit sweetens the peripheries of the palate, ensuring the dryness isn't remorseless.  The background contains hints of the buttery/doughy texture and the aftertaste holds well without decaying or turning sour.  For the price, this is reliable, interesting and tasty.  It will please Champagne lovers but may also turn the heads of loved ones who think all sparkling wine is expensive, dry nothingness.

Name:        Ascheri Gavi di Gavi 2011

Grape:       Cortese

Price:         c. £14

Country:    Italy

Region:      Piedmont

ABV:          13%

Christmas is a good excuse to maybe push the boat out a little further than normal and there may be a time when you want to open something a little bit special.  The white I have chosen is just under £14 at full price but this is for a good reason.  It is quite simply delicious.  Refined and well structured, this Ascheri Gavi di Gavi 2011 is perfectly priced to be an affordable Christmas treat and sophisticated enough to take up valuable table space next to the turkey.  A classy bottle for a classy bird.

This bottle is marked with the Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) which is the Italian appellation model that signifies a high quality of produce from a specified region, using defined methods and that it satisfies a defined quality standard.  If that isn't enough, Italian officials also taste and verify the quality before sealing the top with a bonded sticker, ensuring nobody tampers with it.  Gavi is indigenous to Piedmont, being made throughout the entire region with a wide ranging spectrum of quality and drinkability.  Gavi made from within the commune of Gavi has long since been considered one of the best, if not the best place to find the finest examples.  All of a sudden, the £14 price tag seems more reasonable, doesn't it.

On the nose is delicate lemon and grapefruit, accompanied with hints of melon.  Also detectable is almond or walnut notes.  Overall, the smell is refined but quite mild.  To taste, the first hit comes from lemon zest, fresh apple and grapefruit.  As with the nose, a mild nutty texture works alongside the fruit, adding support and structure to this light-bodied, crisp, dry white.  Acidity is noticeably high but well balanced.  It is possible to imagine that other Gavi di Gavi's with a few more years under their cork would produce some outstanding and complex flavours but this 2011 really has a wonderful presence about it and an incredibly enjoyable mouth feel.

Name:          Chateau La Tulip De La 

                      Garde '09

Grape:          Merlot, Cabernet Franc, 

                      Cabernet Sauvignon 

Price:             c. £10

Country:        France

Region:         Bordeaux

ABV:               14% 

My choice for the red wine lovers is a cracking value Bordeaux called Chateau La Tulipe De La Garde.  Heed my warning though, this wine must be decanted and allowed to come up to room temperature.  If this wine isn't given time to breathe, it will not perform and you will feel like you have eaten a pencil sharpener and wasted a tenner.  Pulling the cork out and leaving the open bottle for half an hour won't cut it either.  This bad boy needs at least half a day to stretch it's legs and limber up.  My advice would be to decant in the morning, just after opening presents but before the arguments start.  This wine will be ready for mealtime, three or four hours later but will be at it's best for the start of Doctor Who.

On the nose is bramble fruits and pencil shavings in equal, prominent measures.  In the background is a more discreet layer in the form of vanilla and perhaps also liquorice.  If decanted well, the taste is firstly dominated by warm and smooth red fruits, matching what was detected during smelling.  The grippy tannins balance the fruit well and add power to this full-bodied red but never take the limelight away from the fruit.  The aftertaste is lengthy and provides an opportunity for tertiary flavours of spices and vanilla to make an appearance, however, this is short lived and difficult to detect.  The strong alcohol content is very obvious on drinking and provides that enjoyable warming feeling that extends to your legs.  A great wine to go with food or for playing 'catch-up' once the kids are in in bed.

Name:        TtD Mulled Wine

Grape:       Tempranillo, Merlot

Price:         £6.50

ABV:           12%

My last choice is a true winter warmer.  Some die hard wino's might turn their nose up at this drink but it is slowly winning over the hearts of the masses and is increasingly becoming the drink people look forward to having during the cold autumn and winter months.  There is a clear link between mulled wine and the upsurging of 'german markets' that seem to inhabit most town centres and the best thing about my recommendation is that you can have an entire bottle of the good stuff, for the same price it would cost for a mere mug, served from a shed with faux icicles and a giant stuffed, singing moose head.

The secret of the drink would appear to be focused on the blend of spices, rather than the quality and integrity of the wine, which in this case, provides the warming, pleasant backdrop for the orange, cinnamon and cloves to shine through.  

The orange can be noted from heating the wine up, all the way through to drinking.  The cloves add a very gentle spice but the cinnamon is not detectable at all.  Despite this, it is delightful to drink and the orange makes a well matched but outstanding flavour.  There is simply no red or white wine that could compete when looking for a rich, warm, alcoholic drink to hold during any external celebrations, or for simply curling up in front of the fire as Christmas starts to lose the fight against Boxing day.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you all.  I look forward to our continued adventures in the new Year.          

Sainsbury's have an enormous presence in the UK.  To find your nearest store, simply walk down a road, any road, it will eventually lead to one.  Alternatively, you can find them on line by pressing this link 'here'...........ha ha, just joking, I meant 'here'........no, 'here'.....or do I mean 'here'.  Ok, I'll stop messing about.  Try clicking 'there' instead.

                     

'Shorn' Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand 2011

Grape:    Sauvignon Blanc

Price:      c £8.50

From:      Legacy Wines

Country: New Zealand

Region:   Marlborough

ABV:        13%

Ever since I have been old enough to buy presents, I have had this sinking feeling when Christmas approaches.  It isn't anything to do with the religion or the holiday itself, but rather, its a feeling of dread that comes with knowing work and effort will soon be required to find suitable presents.  I pride myself on being able to source good presents for everyone and so this adds to the pressure.  Fortunately, once all the buying is done, the feeling completely flips over and like most big kids, I can then focus on the important things, like raiding the house for known pressie hiding places.

This year, I decided it was time to embrace the century I live in and do it all on-line.  Armed with my bank card, I started e-browsing and it wasn't long before presents were bought and ticked off the list. This is great! No crowds to push past, no weather to battle and no waste of time and energy, trudging from shop to shop.  It was going so well that I decided a little libation was in order.  I chose this week's wine, anticipating it was going to be the perfect shopping companion and I was right!

 

First out of the bottle is the distinct scent of tropical and passion fruit which combines with more subtle citrus, apple aromas, and even an element of minerality.  The balance between nose and palate is wonderfully matched, with rich warm passion fruits providing the firm base upon which, lemon and grapefruit hints can be detected.  Towards the backtaste, the sweetness of the tropical fruits play down, allowing the more refreshing elements of citrus and green grasses to play through, giving this wine a drier, more refreshing finish than other NZ Sauv Blancs I have recently tasted.  Almost like the picture of the sheep on the label, the wine has two sides, one that recognises the powerful, aromatic and distinctive taste that comes from grapes ripened in warm climates and the other is a respectful nod to the drier, more grassy/minerally Sauv Blancs of the Old World.  

 

The aftertaste does not degrade but does not linger either, making it a very easy wine to drink with a meal or on its own.  Perfect for sipping while scouring Amazon for the last of the Christmas presents and saluting all delivery drivers who have made our lives so much easier.  There is one obvious drawback to drinking while shopping on line though, and so to the person who ends up with the musical toilet seat; I apologise but I thought it was such a good idea at the time!

 

Legacy Wines currently sell direct to the public through numerous consumer events.  For more information go to their website.  Shorn is available to buy at Nisa stores and selected Spars in the South West.  All Legacy wines are also available to buy on line through www.wearewines.co.uk and at Cash & Carry outlets such as Parfetts & Landmark members.