Amanti del Vino Primitivo '10 & Marques de Caceres Viura '11

Grape:             Primitivo

Price:               £8

From:               Portland Wines

Country:          Italy

Region:            Puglia

ABV:                13%

A common trait of the wino is the never ending desire to find the new, different and exciting.  When someone recommends something that you haven't tried before and they do it with such gusto, there hardly seems any reason to knock the suggestion back.  The two I chose this week are previous recommendations given to me and have been on a list that seems to get longer, no matter the effort to shorten it!

First up is this typically Italian Primitivo, an ancient Italian grape with origins in Puglia, the same region that this wine was produced.  The Primitivo grape is also known as Zinfandel across the Atlantic (as well as several other names) and while examples of wine from both side of the pond are high in alcohol and acidity, the latter tends to be more evident in the actual drinking of Primitivo and is something that makes it recognisable as a European wine, whereas a Zinfandel from California, for example, will have the same attributes but the taste will be consumed with bursting, powerful red fruits throughout.  Once again, a great example of how environment, micro-climate, or dare I say....'terrior' affects the same grape (I feel as though I just crossed a line).

On the nose this red is very fruit driven with strong tones of overripe blackberry, cherry and strawberry.  A distinct lack of wood or any accompanying spices was disarming, however, the fruit does more than enough to keep one interested.  On the palate, the first attack is surprisingly mellow but retains all the fruit described above.  Similarly to the smell, the taste is all about the red fruits and the absence of other influences helps to concentrate the taste buds.  The taste develops quickly and finishes with a slightly sour cherry finish which is sometimes quite notable in Italian wines.  Medium bodied and high in acidity, this wine provides a welcome difference to oaky reds and the level of acidity leads me to consider this may be a good wine to try slightly chilled.

Grape:        Viura

Price:          £8

From:          Portland Wines

Country:     Spain

Region:       Rioja

ABV:           12.5%

This week's white is made from the Viura grape and is more commonly known as White Rioja.  Up until the 1980's it was generally made by barrel fermentation which added a layer of complexity and structure which provided flavours of toast, dough and vanilla which was derived from the oak in the cask.  At some point when neon colours were in fashion and Kelly LeBrock from Weird Science was all men could think about, tastes shifted and the Spanish market responded by leaving out the barrel ageing to create a lighter, drier wine which could be produced in higher quantities because of a better yield. Maybe a move to compete with the growing popularity of Chardonnay at the time.

This wine is very clean on the nose with crisp and pronounced sharp citrus notes, alongside a discrete wet granite influence.  Both myself and Mrs Everyman believed we also caught telltale signs of lees, which has a slightly buttery edge, although this was incredibly faint.

The taste is intensely refreshing with the first hit going to acuate lemon citrus which underlines the high acidity and dryness.  Served chilled, this sensation remains consistent throughout and well into the lengthy aftertaste.  This winemaker has a consistent high quality approach to all their wines and this is no exception.  If you close your eyes and squint a little before taking a sip, you can almost imagine yourself sat in the sunshine.

Portland Wines have several stores in the South Manchester/Cheshire area and can be found at www.portlandwine.co.uk

Concha Y Toro Carmenere 2010 Chile

During my early years as a budding wine enthusiast, I became captivated by the Carmenere grape because of the wonderful back story it tells.  The story is not a secret and those of you familiar with the grape will probably also be familiar with the tale.  The story of this grape precipitated many purchases and a deep fondness for the wine, which I still retain.  

In order to share this story with you, I needed the right bottle to come along.  My wait is now over.

I chose this particular bottle because it is a fine example of what is great about Carmenere.  Yes, there is higher quality Carmenere to be had however, this bottle provides the perfect opportunity to appreciate the taste for yourself at an affordable price.  This example comes from a great Portland Wine outlet that I recently discovered near me, at the price of £8.

The word Carmenere may sound French and you would be right to think so.  It was originally grown around Bordeaux and enjoyed a long and sustained existence in Europe, having originated in Iberia.  At the time, Carmenere was well seated and was arguably considered as one of the original six red grapes of Bordeaux.  All was well until around 1867 when a plague of Phylloxera swept Europe, devastating many grape varieties but dealing Carmenere a particularly vicious blow.  Despite attempts to revive the vine, growers had little success because it was more difficult to grow than other grape varieties and so attention turned to nurturing higher yielding crops.  For years the grape was considered extinct. 

Shortly before the Phylloxera outbreak, Chilean wine growers had imported vines from France and mistaking them for Merlot grapes, had not only preserved Carmenere but had positively increased its coverage to a size far greater than what it had ever been in France.  It would seem that Carmenere didn't just survive in Chile, it preferred it.  Carmenere was officially recognised as a separate variety to Merlot and the Chileans opened their hearts and embraced it as one of their own.  Carmenere found its true home and in return, gave Chileans a signature grape that is almost entirely exclusive to them.

On the nose, distinctive spices of black pepper and cloves compete for attention alongside a strong but pleasant earthen smell.  Quick to follow are rich red fruits which play off fading wood notes.  The first mouthful comes as quite a shock as it delivers a powerful punch.  Smooth damson and blackberry play second fiddle to high tannins and a rich wooden taste but they combine well to form a solid texture which feels well balanced and smooth.  I expected a small nod towards spice during the aftertaste but couldn't detect any with this particular bottle.

 

For me, Carmenere is a strong world player but because of the new world origin, the price enables it to compete easily with higher priced Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon or even Malbec from countries that automatically seem to command a higher price.  I have had previous Carmeneres that play more towards the fruit and spice and are perfectly delicious however, this wine goes one step further and reveals a glimpse of the raw power that makes this Chilean grape so great.