TtD Languedoc 2011 & Vinalba Reserva 2010

Grape: Grenache, Marsanne, Vermentino,
              Viogner
Price: £9
From: Sainsbury's
Country: France
Region: Languedoc
ABV: 13.5%

The two wines I have chosen for this review are both blends which can be argued as being the best grapes from their respective regions.  Even as a die hard fan of varietal wines, I hugely appreciate blending as a true artisan skill.  A miscalculation of a mere 5% of the wrong grape can overbalance the mix and turn the whole vat into something you wouldn't put on your chips.  A great waste of time and resources, not to mention lovely wine!

Sainsbury's have teamed up with Jean-Claude Mas of Domaines Paul Mas to help find the right blend for this Taste the Difference white.  I have been fortunate to have sampled a large selection of wines from this producer and have even reviewed one in the past.  One thing for sure is that I have yet to come across a Paul Mas wine that doesn't please.  I had high hopes before even opening the bottle but knew I was in safe hands (any rugby fans out there?)

On the nose this wine is very light-hearted with crisp lemon tinged with sweetness; almost like lemon meringue.  A very simple smell, accompanied with background floral aromatics which help to indicate further layers of structure to come, without overcomplicating.  To taste, the first attack is reasonably complex, with the awareness of a smooth texture coming across with walnut and warm butter.  Secondly, the lemon can be felt in overtones with a lining of sweetness coming from gentler citrus such as tangerine, but only in the background; this wine is very much of the dry variety.  Tertiary indications of flint or limestone can also be detected as the aftertaste develops however, it does decay a little right at the end.  Overall, a great refreshing drink with a surprising depth.  

I wouldn't hesitate giving it another try (sorry, couldn't help myself).

Grape:     Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, 
                  Merlot
Price:       £10
From:       Sainsbury's
Country:  Argentina
Region:   Mendoza
ABV:       14.5%

Vinalba and I have a bit of a history together.  It has been a companion of mine with many a meal or late night film.  The quality in this bottle came as no surprise to me when I tried it.  In fact, the only surprise came from realising that I haven't already reviewed wines from this producer; something that I intend to rectify in the next few years.

The grapes used are three french powerhouses which are given the new world treatment of oodles more sun and a higher elevation from sea level.  Oak ageing provides further body and muscle to what is a very robust and intense, earthy red wine that commands respect, and by the look of the award insignia in the top right corner, is getting it!

Cassis, dark cherry and raisins come across foremost in a strong fusion of red and dark fruits which are difficult to isolate and identify in their entirety as there appears to be many.  Almost in tandem is strong, resinous tones of wood, perhaps cedar or pine, followed by a fistful of earth which is quite easily detectable at the periphery.  To taste, it is full bodied with a rigid structure.  Strong and firm tannins grab for attention immediately before giving over to blackberry, black currant and other dark bramble fruits.  Ever present in the background is an earth or soil impression that further exacerbates the masculinity of the wine.  The aftertaste is powerful with dark chocolate becoming apparent and the firm structure and tannins holding well for 10-15 seconds after swallowing.

This wine is excellent quality and the fortitude immediately lends itself to being a wine that would go well with food.  Anything that walks on four legs would be a good place to start.

Sainsbury's have numerous stores throughout the UK and can also be found online at www.sainsburys.co.uk

Poggio Argentiera, Morello Di Scansano 2011, Italy

Recording my thoughts and thinking hard about what I drink has made me aware that I tend to gravitate towards South American and Spanish wines.  I now know I love the full bodied feel of a spicy or well balanced red and I can identify the grapes I am fond of.  In particular Tempranillo, Mencia, Carmenere, Malbec and Tannat, although this list is certainly not exhaustive

For this week's choice, I purposefully turn my back on the 'comfort zone' and point myself in the direction of somewhere new.  Italy.  

Made from 85% Sangiovese and 15% Ciliegiolo, this Morellino Di Scansano is a perfect example of how a great Italian wine should taste but don't just take my word for it.  The bottle quite rightly states the Italian designation of Denominazione Di Origine Controllata E Garantita (DOCG), the highest appellation that can be achieved by an Italian wine, indicating top level of quality.  Consider that along with the price tag of £8 or £9 and it makes it the bottle well worth trying (source: Majestic Wines).

Sangiovese is a very important grape to the Italians and you are most likely to have seen it on numerous other bottles before, including Chianti, where it is the main component.  Sangiovese is very versatile and is also heavily featured in the wider spectrum of Italian wines.  The other grape variety, Ciliegiolo (from the Italian word for cherry) is a common bed fellow with Sangiovese and I suspect is used to temper the slightly sour twist that can come from the latter grape.

On the nose I get light and clean with cherries being the obvious fruit.  There was another smell on the fringes that I couldn't quite identify.  Other reviews suggest cold tea but I was more inclined towards cloves.  The taste is light to medium body, youthful and acidic.  Fresh and ripe cherries dominate the palate as well as the nose although the acidity and tannin are ever present and retain control of the aftertaste which, while good ends abruptly.

Considering my heavier bodied tendency for red, this felt light and refreshing, making it a fantastic choice to have in warm weather.  It is no wonder this particular wine has achieved greatness and I can certainly imagine sipping this while dipping my feet in lago Maggiore or lying in the grass at Giardino Borghese or admiring the teatro at the Piazza Politeama.  

I'm sure the producer, Signore Paglia will be delighted to know that it also goes down a treat on a balmy evening in South Manchester, with a six pack of Mr Kipling Victoria Sponges.

Concha Y Toro Carmenere 2010 Chile

During my early years as a budding wine enthusiast, I became captivated by the Carmenere grape because of the wonderful back story it tells.  The story is not a secret and those of you familiar with the grape will probably also be familiar with the tale.  The story of this grape precipitated many purchases and a deep fondness for the wine, which I still retain.  

In order to share this story with you, I needed the right bottle to come along.  My wait is now over.

I chose this particular bottle because it is a fine example of what is great about Carmenere.  Yes, there is higher quality Carmenere to be had however, this bottle provides the perfect opportunity to appreciate the taste for yourself at an affordable price.  This example comes from a great Portland Wine outlet that I recently discovered near me, at the price of £8.

The word Carmenere may sound French and you would be right to think so.  It was originally grown around Bordeaux and enjoyed a long and sustained existence in Europe, having originated in Iberia.  At the time, Carmenere was well seated and was arguably considered as one of the original six red grapes of Bordeaux.  All was well until around 1867 when a plague of Phylloxera swept Europe, devastating many grape varieties but dealing Carmenere a particularly vicious blow.  Despite attempts to revive the vine, growers had little success because it was more difficult to grow than other grape varieties and so attention turned to nurturing higher yielding crops.  For years the grape was considered extinct. 

Shortly before the Phylloxera outbreak, Chilean wine growers had imported vines from France and mistaking them for Merlot grapes, had not only preserved Carmenere but had positively increased its coverage to a size far greater than what it had ever been in France.  It would seem that Carmenere didn't just survive in Chile, it preferred it.  Carmenere was officially recognised as a separate variety to Merlot and the Chileans opened their hearts and embraced it as one of their own.  Carmenere found its true home and in return, gave Chileans a signature grape that is almost entirely exclusive to them.

On the nose, distinctive spices of black pepper and cloves compete for attention alongside a strong but pleasant earthen smell.  Quick to follow are rich red fruits which play off fading wood notes.  The first mouthful comes as quite a shock as it delivers a powerful punch.  Smooth damson and blackberry play second fiddle to high tannins and a rich wooden taste but they combine well to form a solid texture which feels well balanced and smooth.  I expected a small nod towards spice during the aftertaste but couldn't detect any with this particular bottle.

 

For me, Carmenere is a strong world player but because of the new world origin, the price enables it to compete easily with higher priced Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon or even Malbec from countries that automatically seem to command a higher price.  I have had previous Carmeneres that play more towards the fruit and spice and are perfectly delicious however, this wine goes one step further and reveals a glimpse of the raw power that makes this Chilean grape so great.

Lunta Malbec 2009 Argentina Malbec World Choice

You may or may not know that 17 April 2012 is Malbec World Day.  What it means to you or me precisely I do not know however, any excuse to open a bottle of wine on a Tuesday should be fully embraced.

My humble suggestion to try for this year is Mendel Wines' Lunta Malbec 2009, from Mendoza, Argentina.  This particular bottle was intercepted by me at Majestic wines for around £10, after I had tried it on one of their recent 'wine walks'. 

Before opening this bottle, a couple of things on the exterior indicate a degree of quality.  The bottle proudly wears a badge on the front lapel, boasting a gold medal award at the 2011 Argentina Wine Awards.  More impressive to me though is the detail on the back label, clearly providing information on the location, altitude, grape variety, age of vines, date of harvest, duration of maceration and date of bottling.  This feels like a vintner who cares what they make. 

On the nose is immediate oak, strong with a subtle handful of earth thrown in.  Behind this but still quite detectable is the undertone of red fruits, such as plums and blackberries and I have to swear I could also detect the slightest whiff of diesel.  The taste is primarily of oak too, beautifully robust but not overpowering and continues throughout, providing that dry, well balanced tannin texture.  Spice compliments the fading taste.  Fruit is very much secondary to the oak but is ever present in the background.  This is different to the French Malbec from Cahors that I recently reviewed which had a very similar structure but had a more fruity, 'Christmas Pudding' presence about it.  Nevertheless, the Lunta is a lovely strong wine with an enjoyable, warming power.

The strength and arbourious taste makes this a good partner for food.  Most fitting for the occasion would be a nice big Argentinian steak and so if you are lucky enough to have one in your fridge, then Lunta would be a more than competent wingman.  A more realistic suggestion is parmesan cheese, which really changes when eaten with this wine and is a great example of how a good wine can compliment a food.  Try it for yourself and see.

So, on Tuesday after work, buy a nice wedge of smelly Parmesan and a bottle of Lunta.  Open the bottle then go and get changed, send those final emails, update facebook and twitter and switch on the TV.  By the time you are ready for the wine, the wine should be ready for you.  If anyone asks why you are drinking on a school night, laugh out loud and say in a mock knowledgeable tone, 'Don't you know what day it is?', then pour them a glass too.

La Patrie 2010 Malbec Cahors, France

The clocks go forward and the weather turns mild.  Shops hastily sweep their winter promotions off the end of the aisles and pack it with disposable barbeques, charcoal briquettes and firelighters.  Ah yes, summer is on it's way....Or maybe it is already here...maybe this is all we are going to get?  Who knows.

The offers of house parties and barbeques will be shortly on their way.  Are you going to turn up with a bottle of cheap Pinot Grigio that you put on the table and then disown, or that nice expensive bottle that will impress your friends but you get territorial over if anyone tries to pour a little for themselves?

The answer to both of those questions is no.  What you need is a bottle that doesn't melt plastic, either in price or by taste.  This little beauty steps up perfectly.

At £6 in Sainsbuy's, this French Malbec is superb quality.  The smell, once allowed to breathe for 20 or so minutes, is of christmas cake, not too overpowering but enough to invite you in for the night.  The taste is well rounded and there is no sharp tannic kick although these textures are ever present.  Oak and liquorice finish off the main taste although these are definitely secondary to the warming, smooth, fruity mouthful that first greets you.  A very easy wine to drink by itself and perfect to take to a social gathering.  Even the label (without authentic dribble) provides the impression of a well thought purchase and is definitely going to be the first empty bottle on the table.  The cheap Pinot Grigio won't even get a look in!

Malbec is native to France with Cahors associated as the location that produces the goods.  This grape variety has also been embraced by the Argentinians who produce phenominal tasting Malbec, particularly from Mendoza or Rio Negro.  Theirs is generally thought to be less tannic than Cahors, but retain a full bodied taste.   Buy a bottle of this and a bottle of Argentinian and see what you think.