Price: £9.25
From: Oddbins
Country: Crete
Region: Peza
ABV: 13%
This week I am happy to review two outstanding wines that have come from Oddbins. A large leap away from the more common grapes, these two bottles contain varieties that are less known, however, especially in the case of the white wine, do have a fairly accessible presence in the market place. I must confess that the grapes that make up this week's red were previously completely unknown to me and I had to do some digging to find out more about them. All you need to do though is become inspired by my review (hopefully) then go out and buy the wine. I guarantee, you will enjoy them.
Mirambelo is made from a blend of Kotsifali and Mandilaria which is Crete's indigenous version of Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot or Marsanne/Roussanne. Two grapes that form a symbiotic relationship which makes the whole greater than the sum of its parts. Kotsifali brings soft fruit, alcohol and spices, however, isn't well structured and the colour is difficult to obtain from the skins. Mandilaria fills these gaps by adding texture and tannins but isn't very alcoholic and is often too harsh to drink as a varietal. Together however, these bed fellows create a wine that produces rich, intense flavours that are difficult to come by at this price.
On the nose the Mirambelo readily gives deep lungfuls of dark red fruit to anyone happy to stick their nose into the glass. Plum, black cherry and blackberry are easy to pick out. Ground black pepper and aniseed are apparent in the periphery. To taste, the wine delivers everything expected. Ardent red fruits of strawberries, ripened plums, damson and blackberry are first on the palate with a strong alcohol feel. The tannins are strong but balanced and permissive enough to allow the fruit to remain very much the centre of attention. The aftertaste on this full bodied red is surprisingly short lived although the tannins do hang on to entertain the tongue and gums for a while longer. A truly awesome wine that knocks the pants off the competition.
Grape: Falanghina (Beneventana)
Price: £11
From: Oddbins
Country: Italy
Region: Molise
ABV: 13%
In terms of slightly different, this white fits right in with me. The back story found on Oddbins' web page speaks of vampires who found their way to the shores of Italy across Europe before the Pope could bless
the sea in an attempt to keep them out . It was left to the locals to defend themselves and the people of Molise were apparently very adept at making steaks (in Latin falangae) which they promptly used on their unwanted visitors. When the Lost Boys had been dealt with, the steaks were used to support the local vines. The name Falanghina is a tip of the hat to those steaks of Molise. True or not, I don't care but I do note this wine takes no chances and is named after the holy book itself.
On the nose the first to come are gentle but pronounced apricots, nectarine and orange with a slight reference to more zesty citrus. Secondary smells include a very faint grassy edge which blends very well with an equally faint mineral texture, giving the fruit a backbone. On the palate the fruit comes to the fore but brings a distinct salinity. The taste is medium bodied crisp and the acid and salt do contrast with each other but have a great balance which leads to a pleasing taste. The salt remains well into the aftertaste, which is fairly short. This is an impressive dry alternative and the uncommon saltiness helps to provide a greatly satisfying mouth feel.
Oddbins have 35 stores throughout the UK, concentrated in London and the Scottish cities. Manchester is served by their own store in Chorlton. You can also find Oddbins on line at www.oddbins.com
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