d'Arenberg 'The Money Spider' Roussanne 2010

Grape:     Roussanne
Price:       £14.50
From:       Spirited Wines
Country:  Australia
Region:    McLaren Vale
ABV:         13.2% 

This week's choice is really going to test the resolution of you who are detoxing, dieting, cutting down, eliminating or doing something that deprives you of something you like....that is, of course if you are still on the straight and narrow and haven't strayed already! 

For those of you not bothering or yet to start, I have a real treat in store.

Last year's review of Roussanne opened my eyes to this truly wonderful grape and I have been in pursuit of other excellent examples ever since.  The Money Spider has been suggested several times and people have been only too happy to provide a brief description which always had the sound, 'Mmmm' lodged somewhere in the conversation.  General opinion certainly indicates the Money Spider is the archetypal example of Roussanne and even looking this grape up on Wikipedia will show you a picture of this bottle.

It wasn't until a recent chance encounter that I found this wine, however, I have come across other d'Arenberg wines which have been lovingly consumed.  The Laughing Magpie, the Hermit Crab, the Custodian, the Dead Arm and the Galvo Garage to name but a few; each bottle with an intriguing name and displaying the distinctive diagonal red stripe which mirrors the d'Arenberg coat of arms.

The nose is intense with a nutty, buttery texture, followed by cream and Riesling type indications of petroleum.  To taste, this wine has elegance and power and the intensity of the nose is perfectly matched on the palate.  Subtle layers of honeysuckle and cooked apple are also detectable with a change to fresh pear in the long, clean aftertaste.  This is a well pronounced, medium bodied wine that balances acidity with a richness of flavours.  Surprisingly complex in one so relatively young but a truly awesome and memorable drink.

Spirited Wines have a number of stores around the UK and can also be found on line at www.spiritedwines.co.uk

La Croix Gratiot Roussanne 2011

I don't mind admitting that the French section of wine shops intimidate me a little.  It isn't necessarily the wine itself but rather what is written on the label.  The quality classification system used in France seems an insurmountable and confusing muddle of information that provides no real information or clue as to the quality of the liquid inside.  

I suspect this may be true of more than just me (or at least I hope so) and this may be why people pass on French wine in favour of recognisable and 'safe' wine.  After all, most people now know an Aussie Shiraz or a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is a fairly safe bet.  Who wants to risk a tenner on a French bottle, only for it to taste like terps?

If you do feel like taking a chance or are in need of direction, I would heartily recommend the Roussanne and Marsanne grape variety as a great starting place.  Featuring heavily in the Northern Rhone region in France, these two grape varieties are often blended together to produce full bodied, great tasting dry whites that have a pleasant floral aroma and slightly more advanced structure.  Marsanne/Roussanne blends are available in most wine outlets and even the conservatively priced bottles give you a half decent drink and a welcome rest from the usual suspects.

The word Roussanne is rooted from the French word for red or russet, which is the colour the skin turns when ripe.  This grape is known to be difficult to produce large yields but despite this, also comes as a varietal wine (we have already covered this word in a previous blog) for which the subject of this review is a good example.  Made by La Croix Gratiot and purchased from a well sourced and friendly wine shop in Didsbury called Reserve Wines, this bottle was in the £9.99 region at time of purchase.

On the nose the Rousanne is clean throughout, providing an initial and distinct scent of warm stone, partnered with floral tones and honeysuckle.  On the palate the wine has a smooth and almost oily texture, accompanied by a faintly nutty taste.  Acid is ever present but any potency is disguised by honey and sharp citrus, giving it a dry yet smooth overall taste.  The oily, nutty texture is the last taste to leave but remains balanced right to the last, making this a very enjoyable drop.  I can imagine that older examples of this wine would taste great, having had chance to develop and add further complexity to their flavour.

Errazuriz Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2010, Chile

Shaun of the Dead, starring Simon Pegg was released in the UK in April 2004.  Taking advantage of the momentum that Spaced brought, the film was well received by fans and critics alike.  I included myself in this throng but for one reason or another, I just didn't get to see the film.  Such was its popularity that friends would often re-enact hilarious sections and then enjoy post-recital dissection, discussing at length what was so brilliant about the film and the subtle nuances that made each performance shine.  I felt left out and so made a mental note to see it as soon as possible.  Still I didn't.  There was no reason for my avoidance, I liked Spaced and I found Pegg & co very talented. I knew it would be funny and I knew I would enjoy it however, there was simply no reason for my omission, other than maybe apathy.

I eventually did something about it, and when that empty, rainy Saturday came, a revelation took place.  I loved it!  I laughed hard all the way through and marvelled at the clever storyline and inspiring use of the repeated script.  Of course it was old news to everyone else so I missed out on the detailed post-mortem because everyone had gone through this range of emotion years before. 

I went through a similar experience with this wine.  It has been given numerous positive reviews and recommended by friends but for whatever reason, I simply haven't tried it until now.  Majestic Wines helped me to right this wrong to the tune of about £10.  There are definitely no zombies in this wine but the revelation is the same.

On the nose is a distinctive and pleasant buttery and nutty smell with perhaps a hint of freshly risen dough or even cream soda.  The taste reflects the warm buttery smell and is accompanied by vanilla and light oak textures which come from the brief fling the wine has in French oak.  Balanced, smooth and almost creamy there is no kick, although the power of this wine is always in the background, making no more of an appearance than gentle dryness and the faint but pronounced aftertaste of citrus.    The taste is consistent, balanced and a pleasure to drink from pulling the cork to up-ending the bottle.

This Chardonnay stands out because of the way it is made.  The winemaker advises the grapes ripen slowly because of the cooling influence of the sea breeze and fermentation takes place using only the natural yeast found living on the grape and vine (hence the name 'Wild ferment').  The depth and complexity of the grape is evident in the tasting and makes this Chardonnay a must on every wine-lovers list.