Monday 28 May 2012

Poggio Argentiera, Morello Di Scansano 2011, Italy

Recording my thoughts and thinking hard about what I drink has made me aware that I tend to gravitate towards South American and Spanish wines.  I now know I love the full bodied feel of a spicy or well balanced red and I can identify the grapes I am fond of.  In particular Tempranillo, Mencia, Carmenere, Malbec and Tannat, although this list is certainly not exhaustive

For this week's choice, I purposefully turn my back on the 'comfort zone' and point myself in the direction of somewhere new.  Italy.  

Made from 85% Sangiovese and 15% Ciliegiolo, this Morellino Di Scansano is a perfect example of how a great Italian wine should taste but don't just take my word for it.  The bottle quite rightly states the Italian designation of Denominazione Di Origine Controllata E Garantita (DOCG), the highest appellation that can be achieved by an Italian wine, indicating top level of quality.  Consider that along with the price tag of £8 or £9 and it makes it the bottle well worth trying (source: Majestic Wines).

Sangiovese is a very important grape to the Italians and you are most likely to have seen it on numerous other bottles before, including Chianti, where it is the main component.  Sangiovese is very versatile and is also heavily featured in the wider spectrum of Italian wines.  The other grape variety, Ciliegiolo (from the Italian word for cherry) is a common bed fellow with Sangiovese and I suspect is used to temper the slightly sour twist that can come from the latter grape.

On the nose I get light and clean with cherries being the obvious fruit.  There was another smell on the fringes that I couldn't quite identify.  Other reviews suggest cold tea but I was more inclined towards cloves.  The taste is light to medium body, youthful and acidic.  Fresh and ripe cherries dominate the palate as well as the nose although the acidity and tannin are ever present and retain control of the aftertaste which, while good ends abruptly.

Considering my heavier bodied tendency for red, this felt light and refreshing, making it a fantastic choice to have in warm weather.  It is no wonder this particular wine has achieved greatness and I can certainly imagine sipping this while dipping my feet in lago Maggiore or lying in the grass at Giardino Borghese or admiring the teatro at the Piazza Politeama.  

I'm sure the producer, Signore Paglia will be delighted to know that it also goes down a treat on a balmy evening in South Manchester, with a six pack of Mr Kipling Victoria Sponges.

Monday 7 May 2012

Errazuriz Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2010, Chile

Shaun of the Dead, starring Simon Pegg was released in the UK in April 2004.  Taking advantage of the momentum that Spaced brought, the film was well received by fans and critics alike.  I included myself in this throng but for one reason or another, I just didn't get to see the film.  Such was its popularity that friends would often re-enact hilarious sections and then enjoy post-recital dissection, discussing at length what was so brilliant about the film and the subtle nuances that made each performance shine.  I felt left out and so made a mental note to see it as soon as possible.  Still I didn't.  There was no reason for my avoidance, I liked Spaced and I found Pegg & co very talented. I knew it would be funny and I knew I would enjoy it however, there was simply no reason for my omission, other than maybe apathy.

I eventually did something about it, and when that empty, rainy Saturday came, a revelation took place.  I loved it!  I laughed hard all the way through and marvelled at the clever storyline and inspiring use of the repeated script.  Of course it was old news to everyone else so I missed out on the detailed post-mortem because everyone had gone through this range of emotion years before. 

I went through a similar experience with this wine.  It has been given numerous positive reviews and recommended by friends but for whatever reason, I simply haven't tried it until now.  Majestic Wines helped me to right this wrong to the tune of about £10.  There are definitely no zombies in this wine but the revelation is the same.

On the nose is a distinctive and pleasant buttery and nutty smell with perhaps a hint of freshly risen dough or even cream soda.  The taste reflects the warm buttery smell and is accompanied by vanilla and light oak textures which come from the brief fling the wine has in French oak.  Balanced, smooth and almost creamy there is no kick, although the power of this wine is always in the background, making no more of an appearance than gentle dryness and the faint but pronounced aftertaste of citrus.    The taste is consistent, balanced and a pleasure to drink from pulling the cork to up-ending the bottle.

This Chardonnay stands out because of the way it is made.  The winemaker advises the grapes ripen slowly because of the cooling influence of the sea breeze and fermentation takes place using only the natural yeast found living on the grape and vine (hence the name 'Wild ferment').  The depth and complexity of the grape is evident in the tasting and makes this Chardonnay a must on every wine-lovers list.