Monday 25 February 2013

TtD Languedoc 2011 & Vinalba Reserva 2010

Grape: Grenache, Marsanne, Vermentino,
              Viogner
Price: £9
From: Sainsbury's
Country: France
Region: Languedoc
ABV: 13.5%

The two wines I have chosen for this review are both blends which can be argued as being the best grapes from their respective regions.  Even as a die hard fan of varietal wines, I hugely appreciate blending as a true artisan skill.  A miscalculation of a mere 5% of the wrong grape can overbalance the mix and turn the whole vat into something you wouldn't put on your chips.  A great waste of time and resources, not to mention lovely wine!

Sainsbury's have teamed up with Jean-Claude Mas of Domaines Paul Mas to help find the right blend for this Taste the Difference white.  I have been fortunate to have sampled a large selection of wines from this producer and have even reviewed one in the past.  One thing for sure is that I have yet to come across a Paul Mas wine that doesn't please.  I had high hopes before even opening the bottle but knew I was in safe hands (any rugby fans out there?)

On the nose this wine is very light-hearted with crisp lemon tinged with sweetness; almost like lemon meringue.  A very simple smell, accompanied with background floral aromatics which help to indicate further layers of structure to come, without overcomplicating.  To taste, the first attack is reasonably complex, with the awareness of a smooth texture coming across with walnut and warm butter.  Secondly, the lemon can be felt in overtones with a lining of sweetness coming from gentler citrus such as tangerine, but only in the background; this wine is very much of the dry variety.  Tertiary indications of flint or limestone can also be detected as the aftertaste develops however, it does decay a little right at the end.  Overall, a great refreshing drink with a surprising depth.  

I wouldn't hesitate giving it another try (sorry, couldn't help myself).

Grape:     Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, 
                  Merlot
Price:       £10
From:       Sainsbury's
Country:  Argentina
Region:   Mendoza
ABV:       14.5%

Vinalba and I have a bit of a history together.  It has been a companion of mine with many a meal or late night film.  The quality in this bottle came as no surprise to me when I tried it.  In fact, the only surprise came from realising that I haven't already reviewed wines from this producer; something that I intend to rectify in the next few years.

The grapes used are three french powerhouses which are given the new world treatment of oodles more sun and a higher elevation from sea level.  Oak ageing provides further body and muscle to what is a very robust and intense, earthy red wine that commands respect, and by the look of the award insignia in the top right corner, is getting it!

Cassis, dark cherry and raisins come across foremost in a strong fusion of red and dark fruits which are difficult to isolate and identify in their entirety as there appears to be many.  Almost in tandem is strong, resinous tones of wood, perhaps cedar or pine, followed by a fistful of earth which is quite easily detectable at the periphery.  To taste, it is full bodied with a rigid structure.  Strong and firm tannins grab for attention immediately before giving over to blackberry, black currant and other dark bramble fruits.  Ever present in the background is an earth or soil impression that further exacerbates the masculinity of the wine.  The aftertaste is powerful with dark chocolate becoming apparent and the firm structure and tannins holding well for 10-15 seconds after swallowing.

This wine is excellent quality and the fortitude immediately lends itself to being a wine that would go well with food.  Anything that walks on four legs would be a good place to start.

Sainsbury's have numerous stores throughout the UK and can also be found online at www.sainsburys.co.uk

Monday 11 February 2013

Mirambelo 2010 & Biblos Falanghina 2011

Grape:     Kotsifali, Mandilaria
Price:       £9.25
From:       Oddbins
Country:  Crete
Region:    Peza
ABV:         13%

This week I am happy to review two outstanding wines that have come from Oddbins.  A large leap away from the more common grapes, these two bottles contain varieties that are less known, however, especially in the case of the white wine, do have a fairly accessible presence in the market place.  I must confess that the grapes that make up this week's red were previously completely unknown to me and I had to do some digging to find out more about them.  All you need to do though is become inspired by my review (hopefully) then go out and buy the wine.  I guarantee, you will enjoy them.

Mirambelo is made from a blend of Kotsifali and Mandilaria which is Crete's indigenous version of Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot or Marsanne/Roussanne.  Two grapes that form a symbiotic relationship which makes the whole greater than the sum of its parts.  Kotsifali brings soft fruit, alcohol and spices, however, isn't well structured and the colour is difficult to obtain from the skins.  Mandilaria fills these gaps by adding texture and tannins but isn't very alcoholic and is often too harsh to drink as a varietal.  Together however, these bed fellows create a wine that produces rich, intense flavours that are difficult to come by at this price.

On the nose the Mirambelo readily gives deep lungfuls of dark red fruit to anyone happy to stick their nose into the glass.  Plum, black cherry and blackberry are easy to pick out.  Ground black pepper and aniseed are apparent in the periphery.  To taste, the wine delivers everything expected.  Ardent red fruits of strawberries, ripened plums, damson and blackberry are first on the palate with a strong alcohol feel.  The tannins are strong but balanced and permissive enough to allow the fruit to remain very much the centre of attention.  The aftertaste on this full bodied red is surprisingly short lived although the tannins do hang on to entertain the tongue and gums for a while longer.  A truly awesome wine that knocks the pants off the competition.


Grape:             Falanghina (Beneventana)
Price:               £11
From:               Oddbins
Country:          Italy
Region:            Molise
ABV:                13%

In terms of slightly different, this white fits right in with me.    The back story found on Oddbins' web page speaks of vampires who found their way to the shores of Italy across Europe before the Pope could bless the sea in an attempt to keep them out .  It was left to the locals to defend themselves and the people of Molise were apparently very adept at making steaks (in Latin falangae) which they promptly used on their unwanted visitors.  When the Lost Boys had been dealt with, the steaks were used to support the local vines.  The name Falanghina is a tip of the hat to those steaks of Molise.  True or not, I don't care but I do note this wine takes no chances and is named after the holy book itself.

On the nose the first to come are gentle but pronounced apricots, nectarine and orange with a slight reference to more zesty citrus.  Secondary smells include a very faint grassy edge which blends very well with an equally faint mineral texture, giving the fruit a backbone.  On the palate the fruit comes to the fore but brings a distinct salinity.  The taste is medium bodied crisp and the acid and salt do contrast with each other but have a great balance which leads to a pleasing taste.  The salt remains well into the aftertaste, which is fairly short.  This is an impressive dry alternative and the uncommon saltiness helps to provide a greatly satisfying mouth feel.

Oddbins have 35 stores throughout the UK, concentrated in London and the Scottish cities.  Manchester is served by their own store in Chorlton.  You can also find Oddbins on line at www.oddbins.com