Marco De Pegoes 2010

Grape:  Castelao, Alicante Bouschet, Syrah
Price:     £6 - £7.50
Store:    Majestic Wines
Country:Portugal
Region: Peninsula De Setabal
ABV:       13.5%

The shortening days, turning leaves and drop in temperature has finally taken effect and I am thinking more and more about red wines.  What is it about the change in seasons that brings this shift in desires?  There must be something in the make up of red wine that predisposes us to think how nice it would be to drink it during colder months.  Maybe it is the warming effect it can often provide, whereas crispness and acidity of white wine stirs the need to be refreshed in warm summer months.

This week's wine has quickly found it's way onto my frequent buyers list.  The price of the bottle is very reasonable and the quality of the wine inside certainly stands up to it.  Coming from Portugal, this wine is made from a blend of indigenous and international grapes, all grown in a well established co-operative community.  

 

This wine feels slightly perfumed on the nose before faint woodsmoke comes through and sits nicely alongside warm black cherries.  Very easy drinking with obvious dark stone fruit including black cherry and damsons.  The strong tannins are tempered by the fruit to give a grippy mouth feel which adds a warm, full-bodied depth.  The aftertaste is dominated by tannins which relinquish hints of spice such as cloves in the dying moments.  This is easy to drink straight out of the bottle and with a slight chill gives good fruit, however, this wine performs so much more if allowed to breathe and brought up to room temperature.  The flavours open and provides a nice intensity which makes it easy to match with food, however, the wine stays light enough to be fine without.

This wine is a great winter warmer and eases you in nicely to the approaching colder months.  

See......good things happen when we work together.

Majestic have numerous stores throughout the UK and have extended their reach into France.  

Offering a home delivery service also, Majestic can be found at www.majestic.co.uk

Fairhall Cliffs Sauvignon Blanc 2011

Grape:    Sauvignon Blanc

Price:      £7

Store:     Majestic Wine

Country: New Zealand

Region:  Marlborough

ABV:       13%

The mantlepiece in my front room is always the setting for the photographs on my reviews.  I am no expert but I like the light and the backdrop provides a warm and complimentary colour for the bottles.  The thing is, this will all change soon.  The wall behind is actually bare plaster from when Mrs Everyman and I decided we were going to redecorate the entire house and began stripping the walls.  The old wallpaper came off quite quickly but as the weekends fill with other chores and social events, the walls in the living room remain unchanged.  After a while, self-admonishment gets quieter and the state of the walls slowly becomes invisible.  A recent surge in joint effort means it won't be too much longer before changes will be made however, it really surprised me how something that obvious could go unnoticed for such a long time.

That made me think about wine.  Actually, the thought of decorating the entire house made me think about wine but more specifically, about the bottles we buy on a regular basis.  These are the wines that have passed the Everyman household test, great tasting and great value for money but like the front room walls, have been staring me in the face for weeks without me realising.  It didn't take long for this week's choice to move back into focus.

 

This wine delivers on the nose what I enjoy so much about NZ Sauvignon Blanc.  Very prominent and obvious is sweet and tangy passion fruit which carries well and can often greet you before you bring your nose to the glass.  There is a secondary smell, much less pronounced, which is reminiscent of warm straw and at the end is the tiniest hint of diesel.  I wouldn't go as far as cat's pee with this wine but it is close (yes, this is a desirable trait in a Sauvignon Blanc).  The opening taste is straight from the fruitbowl.  Fresh passion fruit, lime and grapefruit dominate the palate in a smooth and crisp fashion, and there is a mineral edge which plays through towards the end, re-enforcing the crisp acidity before a short and unremarkable aftertaste. 

This is a textbook example of a great Sauvignon Blanc from the new world with a very affable pricetag.  It's easy to see the reason why this stops being a wine and becomes part of the furniture.

Ca'del Pipa Corvina 2009

The journey a grape will undertake to become a good wine is astounding.  The more I learn about different wines, the more I appreciate why the resulting taste relies on the most subtle of changes in the wine making process.  Every element from the soil, the vine, picking, transportation, crushing, fermentation, temperature control, preserving, filtration, maturation and bottling is meticulously executed to ensure consistency and control for that particular grape or wine.  Each winemaker has their own particular tried and tested method and the smallest modification can impact on the process, changing the taste of the wine (sometimes on purpose, other times not).  Now factor in something that is out of anyone's control: the weather and the fickleness of mother nature.  A late spring, a wet summer, an early winter, too much water, too little water, a touch of rot, fungus or infestation and a viticulturist's entire crop can be wiped out or severely compromised.  

Consider if you will, the grape as a very demanding child.  Love, care and attention must be given unconditionally and every need must be catered for and addressed immediately in order to stop any chance of things turning sour.  Even when everything has been done and the brat is fed, watered and happily playing, an unexpected oversight or mistake somewhere in the process will result in it being well and truly spoilt.  Only when everything comes together perfectly, does the end justify the painstaking journey taken to get there.  That is why winemakers have enormous passion for their own produce because in effect, they are selling you their children.

This week's wine is a North Italian red, made from 100% Corvina grapes.  Bought from Majestic for £9ish, the appellation is Indicazione Geografica Tipica which is roughly the Italian equivalent of the French Vin de Pays.  I chose this bottle to review because the grapes undergo two specific processes which nicely illustrate the point I am making and which are easily detectable within the taste of the wine.  After being picked, the grapes are air dried for two months, allowing the grape to lose water content but intensifies the flavour of the fruit.  Additionally, the wine is matured in oak barrels for at least a year in order to extract aromatic compounds which contribute to richness and flavour complexity.

First to arrive on the nose was a clear and gentle hit of apple and cherry, accompanied by oak undertones.  Concentrating harder, I also detected a very slight hint of tobacco although this hides shyly behind the legs of the aforementioned prominent flavours.  Upon tasting, cherry jumps out as the leading flavour but are complimented by other red fruits.  It is light and fairly acidic in texture but the discreet tannin and oak provide gravitas and an enjoyable mouth feel.  This is a very approachable red which is light and fruity in body but has the right balance of tannin to make it suitable with or without food.

Considering the plethora of mishaps, ailments and contretemps that can readily occur, it is a wonder that good wine even exists.  Fortunately for us, it does and the Ca'del Pipa Corvina is a fine illustration of a good, affordable wine.  Go on, get some and spoil yourself.

Chapel Down Vintage Reserve Brut

I would call myself a reasonably patriotic man.  This week saw the end to the Queen's Diamond Jubilee celebrations and for once, the incessant noise of the nay-sayers and complainers was drowned out by the noise of a nation full of street parties, park picnics, brass bands, street processions and other 'community considerate' celebrations.  Love thy neighbour is still alive, and it made me proud to be British.  Something we don't get chance at too often unfortunately.

This being said though, I am not the sort to string up bunting or sellotape plastic flags to my front window to openly display my patriotism.  Instead, I prefer to show my appreciation and allegiance to the Empire in more subtle ways.  Like toasting the Queen with an English Sparkling Wine.

Enter Chapel Down Vintage Reserve Brut.  This is a powerful, sparkling wine made by a vineyard based in Tenterden, Kent who use a combination of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Meunier grapes, from nearby vineyards in Kent, Sussex and Essex.

On the nose I could easily detect juicy apple and crisp citrus tones hiding behind the bubbles.  I am advised that other aromas include lemongrass, fresh bread and wild strawberries however, I believe the chilled temperature of the wine, the flute I was using and the fantastically violent effervescence restricted further discovery.  Upon tasting, the first sensation is crisp and almost flint-like.  The bubbles assault the senses and make for a pleasing, dry and refreshing sip.  Further on, I got very subtle hints of raspberries and apple again however, the crisp and balanced acidity remains the star of the show, providing a clear and lasting aftertaste. 

You can get hold of Chapel Down from a number of places including Asda, Waitrose, M&S and good old Majestic Wines.  The price ranges from £15 to £18 and I leave you to draw your own conclusions as to where it costs the most and least.  You will probably be right.

You may still be thinking that us Brits can't produce Champagne, and you would be right - we can't.  We can however, make a world class, award winning, English Sparkling Wine.  That's definitely another thing to be proud of.

Poggio Argentiera, Morello Di Scansano 2011, Italy

Recording my thoughts and thinking hard about what I drink has made me aware that I tend to gravitate towards South American and Spanish wines.  I now know I love the full bodied feel of a spicy or well balanced red and I can identify the grapes I am fond of.  In particular Tempranillo, Mencia, Carmenere, Malbec and Tannat, although this list is certainly not exhaustive

For this week's choice, I purposefully turn my back on the 'comfort zone' and point myself in the direction of somewhere new.  Italy.  

Made from 85% Sangiovese and 15% Ciliegiolo, this Morellino Di Scansano is a perfect example of how a great Italian wine should taste but don't just take my word for it.  The bottle quite rightly states the Italian designation of Denominazione Di Origine Controllata E Garantita (DOCG), the highest appellation that can be achieved by an Italian wine, indicating top level of quality.  Consider that along with the price tag of £8 or £9 and it makes it the bottle well worth trying (source: Majestic Wines).

Sangiovese is a very important grape to the Italians and you are most likely to have seen it on numerous other bottles before, including Chianti, where it is the main component.  Sangiovese is very versatile and is also heavily featured in the wider spectrum of Italian wines.  The other grape variety, Ciliegiolo (from the Italian word for cherry) is a common bed fellow with Sangiovese and I suspect is used to temper the slightly sour twist that can come from the latter grape.

On the nose I get light and clean with cherries being the obvious fruit.  There was another smell on the fringes that I couldn't quite identify.  Other reviews suggest cold tea but I was more inclined towards cloves.  The taste is light to medium body, youthful and acidic.  Fresh and ripe cherries dominate the palate as well as the nose although the acidity and tannin are ever present and retain control of the aftertaste which, while good ends abruptly.

Considering my heavier bodied tendency for red, this felt light and refreshing, making it a fantastic choice to have in warm weather.  It is no wonder this particular wine has achieved greatness and I can certainly imagine sipping this while dipping my feet in lago Maggiore or lying in the grass at Giardino Borghese or admiring the teatro at the Piazza Politeama.  

I'm sure the producer, Signore Paglia will be delighted to know that it also goes down a treat on a balmy evening in South Manchester, with a six pack of Mr Kipling Victoria Sponges.

Errazuriz Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2010, Chile

Shaun of the Dead, starring Simon Pegg was released in the UK in April 2004.  Taking advantage of the momentum that Spaced brought, the film was well received by fans and critics alike.  I included myself in this throng but for one reason or another, I just didn't get to see the film.  Such was its popularity that friends would often re-enact hilarious sections and then enjoy post-recital dissection, discussing at length what was so brilliant about the film and the subtle nuances that made each performance shine.  I felt left out and so made a mental note to see it as soon as possible.  Still I didn't.  There was no reason for my avoidance, I liked Spaced and I found Pegg & co very talented. I knew it would be funny and I knew I would enjoy it however, there was simply no reason for my omission, other than maybe apathy.

I eventually did something about it, and when that empty, rainy Saturday came, a revelation took place.  I loved it!  I laughed hard all the way through and marvelled at the clever storyline and inspiring use of the repeated script.  Of course it was old news to everyone else so I missed out on the detailed post-mortem because everyone had gone through this range of emotion years before. 

I went through a similar experience with this wine.  It has been given numerous positive reviews and recommended by friends but for whatever reason, I simply haven't tried it until now.  Majestic Wines helped me to right this wrong to the tune of about £10.  There are definitely no zombies in this wine but the revelation is the same.

On the nose is a distinctive and pleasant buttery and nutty smell with perhaps a hint of freshly risen dough or even cream soda.  The taste reflects the warm buttery smell and is accompanied by vanilla and light oak textures which come from the brief fling the wine has in French oak.  Balanced, smooth and almost creamy there is no kick, although the power of this wine is always in the background, making no more of an appearance than gentle dryness and the faint but pronounced aftertaste of citrus.    The taste is consistent, balanced and a pleasure to drink from pulling the cork to up-ending the bottle.

This Chardonnay stands out because of the way it is made.  The winemaker advises the grapes ripen slowly because of the cooling influence of the sea breeze and fermentation takes place using only the natural yeast found living on the grape and vine (hence the name 'Wild ferment').  The depth and complexity of the grape is evident in the tasting and makes this Chardonnay a must on every wine-lovers list.

'La Rioja' Torrontes Chardonnay Argentina 2011

What I love most about writing these reviews (apart from the joy I know it gives you to read them), is that I push myself into trying different wines that I otherwise might not normally go for.  This inevitably leads to self-discoveries of two different varieties.

Firstly, you have the negative discovery.  Simply put, this is a wine you don't like.  Be it the grape, the acidity, the taste, the company or a combination of factors.  It doesn't matter what it is, you just know that you don't like it.   Each negative discovery however, provides you with another valuable nugget of knowledge about your own preferences and rather than adding to your list, it simplifies matters a little by removing an option instead.  Whilst this is useful info, it still leaves you with one further question.  What to do with a three quarter full bottle of plonk you don't like. (Yes I know OK, you just drink it anyway)

The second type of discovery is my favourite.  Positive discovery.  This week's wine falls perfectly into that category.  This bottle came from the high street champions of fairtrade, the Co-Op at a very affordable price in the region of £6.  The wine is from the confusingly named 'La Rioja Valley' in Argentina but is made from an undisclosed mixture of Torrontes and Chardonnay grape, with not a Tempranillo grape in sight!

As we know from my previous reviews, young Chardonnay can be sharp, flint like and refreshingly crisp.  In stark contrast however, the Torrontes is aromatic, floral and fruity.  They also share similar traits.  Both are dry, medium to high in acidity and perform well while young.  These common characteristics create a very good base upon which to build a great tasting wine.

In this one, the Torrontes provides much of the sweet and aromatic senses on the nose.  You don't have to try hard at all to get clean and pronounced rose, honey and grapefruit, although the latter could be coming from the Chardonnay.  Taking my time, I felt I could also pick up on softer citrus flavours, maybe orange as well as a faintness of ground white pepper.  

Chardonnay grabs your attention by stomping its foot in your mouth with a powerful, crisp and dry minerality.  This is quickly followed with fruit, although most sweetness is left behind in the nose and so delivers only the slightly tart zing of grapefruit with maybe the tiniest hint of peach or lychee to prevent any one-eyed wincing.  The acidity lingers after swallowing but doesn't outstay its welcome, leaving the sensation of enjoyable refreshment. I would compare this to a Gewurztraminer from Chilean wine producer, Yali (which you can get it at Majestic Wine for about £7/£8) which also delivered a sweet and floral nose and was dryer than expected upon tasting.

Positive discoveries also leave you with one further question.  Will anyone notice if I try to get more in my glass than theirs?

Palacios Petalos Del Bierzo Mencia 2009

There are times in life when fortune smiles directly upon you and places treasure in your path, reminding you to keep your eyes open for the wonderful and spectacular.  When fortune takes the form of wine, it can turn an average wine drinker into a passionate wine lover in just one glass.  This happened to me a while ago upon discovering Gewurztraminer.  Had that particular chance encounter never have happened though, Petalos would have ignited that flame.

Petalos is made from the Mencia grape and comes from the Bierzo region of north-west Spain.  This one found its way to me via Majestic Wines for around £15.  The price may cause some momentary indecisiveness but hey, fortune also favours the brave.

Give this wine the opportunity to have a good stretch and get used to its surroundings. It's come a long way in cramped and probably dark conditions so decanting for at least half an hour will enable the wine to open and give up so much more.

On the nose, I got nothing too obvious, red fruits were present but confidently understated.  The absence of any wood notes was pleasantly surprising but a good long sniff produced a very faint scent of wood smoke.  The taste is light but unmistakably strong, a beautiful velvety smoothness which clearly sets this wine apart and fully justifies the price.  Medium tannins can be easily felt in the cheeks and tongue and the combined red fruits make for a balanced taste although difficult to isolate and identify individually.  Spice develops in the closing stages, concluding what can only be described as a very pleasing mouthful.  

I found a previous review in a book called, Life's Too Short to Drink Bad Wine by Simon Hoggart and it states, "...light and soft, but with a deceptive richness and depth..." I could not agree more.  At 14.5% (probably at least 15% in reality), this is the sort of wine that will go to your legs without letting you know about it.

Admittedly, Mencia is a new discovery for me but one I shall be more keenly aware of in future, especially as I understand 'oaked' examples are also made in this smooth style.  Mencia would be a great grape to try if you want to expand beyond Shiraz, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Mencia appears to be exclusively Spanish with the best producing regions being Rias Biaxas, Ribeiro in Galicia and Beirzo in Leon.  Look for these names on a bottle as an indicator of quality and let fortune's smile bring you some well deserved treasures.

Lunta Malbec 2009 Argentina Malbec World Choice

You may or may not know that 17 April 2012 is Malbec World Day.  What it means to you or me precisely I do not know however, any excuse to open a bottle of wine on a Tuesday should be fully embraced.

My humble suggestion to try for this year is Mendel Wines' Lunta Malbec 2009, from Mendoza, Argentina.  This particular bottle was intercepted by me at Majestic wines for around £10, after I had tried it on one of their recent 'wine walks'. 

Before opening this bottle, a couple of things on the exterior indicate a degree of quality.  The bottle proudly wears a badge on the front lapel, boasting a gold medal award at the 2011 Argentina Wine Awards.  More impressive to me though is the detail on the back label, clearly providing information on the location, altitude, grape variety, age of vines, date of harvest, duration of maceration and date of bottling.  This feels like a vintner who cares what they make. 

On the nose is immediate oak, strong with a subtle handful of earth thrown in.  Behind this but still quite detectable is the undertone of red fruits, such as plums and blackberries and I have to swear I could also detect the slightest whiff of diesel.  The taste is primarily of oak too, beautifully robust but not overpowering and continues throughout, providing that dry, well balanced tannin texture.  Spice compliments the fading taste.  Fruit is very much secondary to the oak but is ever present in the background.  This is different to the French Malbec from Cahors that I recently reviewed which had a very similar structure but had a more fruity, 'Christmas Pudding' presence about it.  Nevertheless, the Lunta is a lovely strong wine with an enjoyable, warming power.

The strength and arbourious taste makes this a good partner for food.  Most fitting for the occasion would be a nice big Argentinian steak and so if you are lucky enough to have one in your fridge, then Lunta would be a more than competent wingman.  A more realistic suggestion is parmesan cheese, which really changes when eaten with this wine and is a great example of how a good wine can compliment a food.  Try it for yourself and see.

So, on Tuesday after work, buy a nice wedge of smelly Parmesan and a bottle of Lunta.  Open the bottle then go and get changed, send those final emails, update facebook and twitter and switch on the TV.  By the time you are ready for the wine, the wine should be ready for you.  If anyone asks why you are drinking on a school night, laugh out loud and say in a mock knowledgeable tone, 'Don't you know what day it is?', then pour them a glass too.

Luis Felipe 2011 Chardonnay Chile

Luis Felipe is a name that you are likely to have already come across.  These chaps are from Chile and their lower priced bottles can be very competitive with their more expensive counterparts from say New Zealand or Australia.  In my opinion, a stalwart brand that could quite easily have a Hardy's/Jacob's Creek sort of presence in the near future.  I bought this at good old Majestics but I have seen it in other stores.  This bottle works out about £5.

Being a very young wine, it isn't aged in oak casks and so the flavours are punchy and upfront.  The back of the bottle states, "fresh and fruity with flavours of melon and tropical fruit".  Giving it a good sniff, I could detect faint hints of green fruits with gooseberry and melon springing to mind first.    These smells aren't obvious and I had to persevere until I had something to write about rather than enjoy.  

The taste was clear, dry and very crisp.  The acidity of this young wine comes across in the dryness of the taste, which is consistent until it fades.   I found it difficult to detect any real fruity presence in the taste but that isn't necessarily unexpected.  Unoaked chardonnay of good quality is synonymous with being bone dry with the acidity working in it's favour to make it a very refreshing drink.  This bottle certainly displays the right characteristics and I could imagine appreciating a glass of this on a warm day to cool myself down.

Corbieres 2011 Viura/Macabeu

Much to the dismay of the manager at Majestic, I had the specific goal of purchasing the cheapest wine I could bring myself to try for this week's reviews.  This was one of the wines I bought, all around the £5 mark.

I must admit that I did not hold out much hope for this particular bottle.  I expected astringent and acidic but what came forth was more angelic.

The grape is Macabeu (French) or Macabeo (Spanish) or Viura.  Being native to Spain, it is used in white Rioja. 

Concentrating really hard at getting something on the nose, I drew great lung fulls but could not get anything more than a very faint tang of fruit, lemon perhaps, and cream.  After several concerted attempts, I gave up trying. 

The first mouthful brought more sensation than flavour.  It is light and smooth and once again, the creamy texture and fruity undertones only making polite gestures to be noticed. No one thing fights to get your attention or tries to take your taste buds on a roller-coaster ride.  The sharp and acidic bite doesn't come and it goes down with a quickly fading aftertaste, simply leaving you with a desire to take another sip.

This is light, dry and incredibly easy to drink whatever the occasion.  Don't get me wrong, it isn't an earth mover but if you're looking for quality in quantity, this won't disappoint.  This is the perfect sort of Tuesday night drink, when the realisation you aren't even halfway through the week sinks in and you want something to drink that you won't regret the following day.

As for me, I didn't get past Monday.

Don Pedro, Spain, Tempranillo

Bought during a recent Friday jaunt to Majestic Wines.  Price tag was around £7.50 at time of purchase.

This strong and beautiful red comes from Valencia and has the demarcation of 'Gran Reserva'.  This means that it has to be at least 5 years old and aged for 2 of those years in oak casks.  This makes the flavours of a well made wine become more complex and deeper and while this has happened here, it has not let go of it's fruity and vibrant origins.

Tempranillo is a very important grape variety to the Spanish and is the heart of the more familiar, Rioja.

I usually give red wines a bit of time to adapt and get themselves ready for drinking before diving in but work had been particularly hard and I couldn't be bothered to wait.  Admittedly, this meant that I didn't get much out of the smell other than the hint of cork.  The taste was everything I was hoping to get though, firstly a slight kick of spices (pepper perhaps?) before giving way to a deep, silky, oaky taste which blended well with dark, mature, red fruits such as plums, cherries and blackberries.  The ageing had given the fruit an evolved taste, similar to alcohol soaked raisins.  The finish continued to be smooth as well as comfortably dry and lingering.  I considered that it would be good to have with a steak, especially one with peppercorn sauce to compliment the spice in the wine but I ended up having it with pizza and oven chips and it did just fine.

I got two bottles of this, the last was demolished on Sunday by me and Julie and it was every bit as impressive the second time round.  I wouldn't hesitate to buy this again but I would have a meal in mind, rather than drink it on it's own.

Cape Crest, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc

Now THIS is a beautiful bottle of white wine!

Bought from Majestic Wine, the price tag is in the £20 region but it was my birthday so wanted to treat myself.  I picked a stonker!

Sticking my nose into the glass, I got a very sweet aroma, similar to mango and it gave the impression that the taste would be a little on the sweet side.  Taking a sip proved that wrong though.  The first mouthful bombards you with lemon, orange and grapefruit hints while at the same time, an unmistakable flavour of stone or flint.  Not that I go round sucking on pebbles.

After the flavours settle down, you are still left with the suggestion that it could be a 'medium' wine however, it turns dry and leaves you with a crisp, clear finish.  A beautiful balance that doesn't take the dry sensation too far.

It sounds a lot for one mouthful but it really did give up all those flavours, and many more.  Even as I drained the bottle, each mouthful was as fresh and full of flavour as the first. 

Wines from New Zealand are usually a good bet but this goes beyond what I normally expect.  I associated good Sauvignon Blancs from the Marlborough region but I will be adding Hawkes Bay to my list.  In my opinion, this is a fine example of how to do Sauvignon Blanc.  

If someone turned up at my house with this in their hands, I wouldn't turn them away!