Thursday, 31 January 2013

Amanti del Vino Primitivo '10 & Marques de Caceres Viura '11

Grape:             Primitivo
Price:               £8
From:               Portland Wines
Country:          Italy
Region:            Puglia
ABV:                13%

A common trait of the wino is the never ending desire to find the new, different and exciting.  When someone recommends something that you haven't tried before and they do it with such gusto, there hardly seems any reason to knock the suggestion back.  The two I chose this week are previous recommendations given to me and have been on a list that seems to get longer, no matter the effort to shorten it!

First up is this typically Italian Primitivo, an ancient Italian grape with origins in Puglia, the same region that this wine was produced.  The Primitivo grape is also known as Zinfandel across the Atlantic (as well as several other names) and while examples of wine from both side of the pond are high in alcohol and acidity, the latter tends to be more evident in the actual drinking of Primitivo and is something that makes it recognisable as a European wine, whereas a Zinfandel from California, for example, will have the same attributes but the taste will be consumed with bursting, powerful red fruits throughout.  Once again, a great example of how environment, micro-climate, or dare I say....'terrior' affects the same grape (I feel as though I just crossed a line).

On the nose this red is very fruit driven with strong tones of overripe blackberry, cherry and strawberry.  A distinct lack of wood or any accompanying spices was disarming, however, the fruit does more than enough to keep one interested.  On the palate, the first attack is surprisingly mellow but retains all the fruit described above.  Similarly to the smell, the taste is all about the red fruits and the absence of other influences helps to concentrate the taste buds.  The taste develops quickly and finishes with a slightly sour cherry finish which is sometimes quite notable in Italian wines.  Medium bodied and high in acidity, this wine provides a welcome difference to oaky reds and the level of acidity leads me to consider this may be a good wine to try slightly chilled.

Grape:        Viura
Price:          £8
From:          Portland Wines
Country:     Spain
Region:       Rioja
ABV:           12.5%

This week's white is made from the Viura grape and is more commonly known as White Rioja.  Up until the 1980's it was generally made by barrel fermentation which added a layer of complexity and structure which provided flavours of toast, dough and vanilla which was derived from the oak in the cask.  At some point when neon colours were in fashion and Kelly LeBrock from Weird Science was all men could think about, tastes shifted and the Spanish market responded by leaving out the barrel ageing to create a lighter, drier wine which could be produced in higher quantities because of a better yield. Maybe a move to compete with the growing popularity of Chardonnay at the time.

This wine is very clean on the nose with crisp and pronounced sharp citrus notes, alongside a discrete wet granite influence.  Both myself and Mrs Everyman believed we also caught telltale signs of lees, which has a slightly buttery edge, although this was incredibly faint.
The taste is intensely refreshing with the first hit going to acuate lemon citrus which underlines the high acidity and dryness.  Served chilled, this sensation remains consistent throughout and well into the lengthy aftertaste.  This winemaker has a consistent high quality approach to all their wines and this is no exception.  If you close your eyes and squint a little before taking a sip, you can almost imagine yourself sat in the sunshine.


Portland Wines have several stores in the South Manchester/Cheshire area and can be found at www.portlandwine.co.uk


Monday, 14 January 2013

Chateau de Targe 2012 & Marquis de Pennautier 2010

Grape:         Cabernet Franc
Price:           £6.66 (on offer)
From:           Majestic Wines
Country:      France
Region:       Saumur-Champigny, Loire
ABV:            13%

This bevvy of beauties comes from Majestic Wines and is currently in their 'Bargain Hunt' promotion.  Both normally priced at around a tenner, this current push sees the price of both bottles plunge to ridiculously low prices, especially considering the quality of the wine inside (No, I'm not on commission, although maybe I should be. Hint hint).

First up is this Cabernet Franc that claims it's home in the Loire Valley, even though it is grown throughout Bordeaux and beyond.  Cabernet Franc is a new grape to get the Everyman treatment, however, the grape itself is really, really old.  The parent of Cabernet Sauvignon, this grape has long since been associated with great quality wines from the Loire Valley, which stretches horizontally across France from the Atlantic, just below Brittany to the South West of Paris.  It also just so happens to be where I am going on my jollies this year!

Bright ruby in colour, even after 3 years behind cork, the nose is captured by fresh and youthful red fruits, such as strawberries and raspberries.  Not heavy at all, the smell is complimented by faint tones of cedar wood along with an indistinct sweetness that reminds me of chocolate or vanilla.

On the palate it is warm, smooth and medium bodied with a reasonably high acidity that helps to create a wine of lighter proportions, but has the gravitas of a good red wine with 'glugability' (is that a word?...it is now).  Tannins are present throughout and are more prevalent on the back end and aftertaste, and help to provide a good platform for the dying flavours of spice.  Overall, well worth buying, especially at current prices but I would also look out for it after the promotion.

Grape:       Chardonnay
Price:         £6.66 (on offer)
From:         Majestic Wines
Country:    France
Region:      Languedoc-Roussillon
ABV:           13.5%

This wine is a Chardonnay from the south of France.  As mentioned in a previous review, this versatile grape reflects the soils it is grown in and is influenced by the general temperature as the grapes ripen.  To quote Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding and Jose Vouillamoz in their joint book, ...capable of extreme mediocrity and regal splendour...a poignant quote which sums up all that is great, and not so great about this grape.

This particular bottle certainly errs towards the latter description and displays wonderful fragrant tones of peach and nectarine, combined with a rich and leesy texture which excites the senses and raises expectations of the taste.  Lastly, I did track some more herbaceous or grassy notes, however, these were very faint and only became more noticable as the wine slowly climbed towards a more ambient temperature.

On the palate, this wine is light and friendly with a great balance between acidity and the added structure that comes from oak ageing and stirring the lees (the remaining bits left after pressing) during fermentation.  The main attack belongs to white stone fruit and remains so throughout the length of the taste.  The aftertaste is a little quiet but provides a gentle tingle on the lips and a nod towards ground white pepper before dissappearing under the radar again.  The combination of the fruit along with the crisp acidity and more complex background provide a very drinkable wine with a fantastic attitude. 



Majestic have numerous stores throughout the UK and have extended their reach into France.  
Offering a home delivery service also, Majestic can be found at www.majestic.co.uk
 

Monday, 7 January 2013

d'Arenberg 'The Money Spider' Roussanne 2010

Grape:     Roussanne
Price:       £14.50
From:       Spirited Wines
Country:  Australia
Region:    McLaren Vale
ABV:         13.2% 

This week's choice is really going to test the resolution of you who are detoxing, dieting, cutting down, eliminating or doing something that deprives you of something you like....that is, of course if you are still on the straight and narrow and haven't strayed already! 

For those of you not bothering or yet to start, I have a real treat in store.

Last year's review of Roussanne opened my eyes to this truly wonderful grape and I have been in pursuit of other excellent examples ever since.  The Money Spider has been suggested several times and people have been only too happy to provide a brief description which always had the sound, 'Mmmm' lodged somewhere in the conversation.  General opinion certainly indicates the Money Spider is the archetypal example of Roussanne and even looking this grape up on Wikipedia will show you a picture of this bottle.

It wasn't until a recent chance encounter that I found this wine, however, I have come across other d'Arenberg wines which have been lovingly consumed.  The Laughing Magpie, the Hermit Crab, the Custodian, the Dead Arm and the Galvo Garage to name but a few; each bottle with an intriguing name and displaying the distinctive diagonal red stripe which mirrors the d'Arenberg coat of arms.

The nose is intense with a nutty, buttery texture, followed by cream and Riesling type indications of petroleum.  To taste, this wine has elegance and power and the intensity of the nose is perfectly matched on the palate.  Subtle layers of honeysuckle and cooked apple are also detectable with a change to fresh pear in the long, clean aftertaste.  This is a well pronounced, medium bodied wine that balances acidity with a richness of flavours.  Surprisingly complex in one so relatively young but a truly awesome and memorable drink.

Spirited Wines have a number of stores around the UK and can also be found on line at www.spiritedwines.co.uk