Grape: Primitivo
Price: £8
From: Portland Wines
Country: Italy
Region: Puglia
ABV: 13%
A common trait of the wino is the never ending desire to find the new, different and exciting. When someone recommends something that you haven't tried before and they do it with such gusto, there hardly seems any reason to knock the suggestion back. The two I chose this week are previous recommendations given to me and have been on a list that seems to get longer, no matter the effort to shorten it!
First up is this typically Italian Primitivo, an ancient Italian grape with origins in Puglia, the same region that this wine was produced. The Primitivo grape is also known as Zinfandel across the Atlantic (as well as several other names) and while examples of wine from both side of the pond are high in alcohol and acidity, the latter tends to be more evident in the actual drinking of Primitivo and is something that makes it recognisable as a European wine, whereas a Zinfandel from California, for example, will have the same attributes but the taste will be consumed with bursting, powerful red fruits throughout. Once again, a great example of how environment, micro-climate, or dare I say....'terrior' affects the same grape (I feel as though I just crossed a line).
On the nose this red is very fruit driven with strong tones of overripe blackberry, cherry and strawberry. A distinct lack of wood or any accompanying spices was disarming, however, the fruit does more than enough to keep one interested. On the palate, the first attack is surprisingly mellow but retains all the fruit described above. Similarly to the smell, the taste is all about the red fruits and the absence of other influences helps to concentrate the taste buds. The taste develops quickly and finishes with a slightly sour cherry finish which is sometimes quite notable in Italian wines. Medium bodied and high in acidity, this wine provides a welcome difference to oaky reds and the level of acidity leads me to consider this may be a good wine to try slightly chilled.
Grape: Viura
Price: £8
From: Portland Wines
Country: Spain
Region: Rioja
ABV: 12.5%
This week's white is made from the Viura grape and is more commonly known as White Rioja. Up until the 1980's it was generally made by barrel fermentation which added a layer of complexity and structure which provided flavours of toast, dough and vanilla which was derived from the oak in the cask. At some point when neon colours were in fashion and Kelly LeBrock from Weird Science was all men could think about, tastes shifted and the Spanish market responded by leaving out the barrel ageing to create a lighter, drier wine which could be produced in higher quantities because of a better yield. Maybe a move to compete with the growing popularity of Chardonnay at the time.
This wine is very clean on the nose with crisp and pronounced sharp citrus notes, alongside a discrete wet granite influence. Both myself and Mrs Everyman believed we also caught telltale signs of lees, which has a slightly buttery edge, although this was incredibly faint.
The taste is intensely refreshing with the first hit going to acuate lemon citrus which underlines the high acidity and dryness. Served chilled, this sensation remains consistent throughout and well into the lengthy aftertaste. This winemaker has a consistent high quality approach to all their wines and this is no exception. If you close your eyes and squint a little before taking a sip, you can almost imagine yourself sat in the sunshine.
Portland Wines have several
stores in the South Manchester/Cheshire area and can be found at www.portlandwine.co.uk