Monday 25 June 2012

Ca'del Pipa Corvina 2009

The journey a grape will undertake to become a good wine is astounding.  The more I learn about different wines, the more I appreciate why the resulting taste relies on the most subtle of changes in the wine making process.  Every element from the soil, the vine, picking, transportation, crushing, fermentation, temperature control, preserving, filtration, maturation and bottling is meticulously executed to ensure consistency and control for that particular grape or wine.  Each winemaker has their own particular tried and tested method and the smallest modification can impact on the process, changing the taste of the wine (sometimes on purpose, other times not).  Now factor in something that is out of anyone's control: the weather and the fickleness of mother nature.  A late spring, a wet summer, an early winter, too much water, too little water, a touch of rot, fungus or infestation and a viticulturist's entire crop can be wiped out or severely compromised.  
Consider if you will, the grape as a very demanding child.  Love, care and attention must be given unconditionally and every need must be catered for and addressed immediately in order to stop any chance of things turning sour.  Even when everything has been done and the brat is fed, watered and happily playing, an unexpected oversight or mistake somewhere in the process will result in it being well and truly spoilt.  Only when everything comes together perfectly, does the end justify the painstaking journey taken to get there.  That is why winemakers have enormous passion for their own produce because in effect, they are selling you their children.

This week's wine is a North Italian red, made from 100% Corvina grapes.  Bought from Majestic for £9ish, the appellation is Indicazione Geografica Tipica which is roughly the Italian equivalent of the French Vin de Pays.  I chose this bottle to review because the grapes undergo two specific processes which nicely illustrate the point I am making and which are easily detectable within the taste of the wine.  After being picked, the grapes are air dried for two months, allowing the grape to lose water content but intensifies the flavour of the fruit.  Additionally, the wine is matured in oak barrels for at least a year in order to extract aromatic compounds which contribute to richness and flavour complexity.

First to arrive on the nose was a clear and gentle hit of apple and cherry, accompanied by oak undertones.  Concentrating harder, I also detected a very slight hint of tobacco although this hides shyly behind the legs of the aforementioned prominent flavours.  Upon tasting, cherry jumps out as the leading flavour but are complimented by other red fruits.  It is light and fairly acidic in texture but the discreet tannin and oak provide gravitas and an enjoyable mouth feel.  This is a very approachable red which is light and fruity in body but has the right balance of tannin to make it suitable with or without food.

Considering the plethora of mishaps, ailments and contretemps that can readily occur, it is a wonder that good wine even exists.  Fortunately for us, it does and the Ca'del Pipa Corvina is a fine illustration of a good, affordable wine.  Go on, get some and spoil yourself.

Monday 18 June 2012

Main Divide Riesling 2010

Riesling is a grape variety that I have probably known the longest without actually realising it.  I remember during my childhood, many a Sunday lunch was accompanied by a bottle of Liebfraumilch or Hock.  Occasionally, my parents would allow us children to have a small sample but my memory of what we were allowed to try has faded beyond recall and only four remaining words summarise what I remember of the taste, "Maybe beer is better?"  

If dad brought home a bottle of this to try instead, the taste would have made a longer lasting impression. Let's be clear on this point though, I'm not knocking German wines.  I have bought several in recent years and have immensley enjoyed them.  No doubt I will review them at some point however, I don't think I would get any objection from saying they are a far cry from what I was exposed to back in the eighties and early nineties.  

This particular bottle comes from New Zealand's Waipara Valley on the south island where the Donaldson family collect grapes from nearby vinyards to create their wines.  If this Riesling is anything to go by, the rest of their range is well worth looking out for.  This bottle cost in the region of £12.50 and came from ye olde faithful Majestic Wines.  The price may cause you to think twice and you would be right in doing so.  This isn't quaffing wine but the sort of bottle that goes with you to a nice, sit down meal with friends.  This is also a great wine to try if you feel that all white wines smell and taste the same.

On the nose was immediate and obvious tones of petrol or diesel; the nice smell that hits you sometimes on a petrol station forecourt.  This was combined with a well matched minerality, reminiscent of slate.  Although not unpleasant, this primary smell is strong and overpowers any scent of fruit, limiting it to just a faint whiff of grapefruit which compliments the original nasal assault.

The tasting was equally robust and full of surprises.  A sweetness is immediately evident but is a momentary pre-cursor to the main attack from the petrol/diesel element which also turns dry on the tongue.  Although this sounds a little odd for describing a wine, the Riesling grape is well known to produce a petrol/diesel taste and it is most certainly an endearing feature that creates much buzz and desirability.  Towards the latter end, grapefruit steps up and gradually takes over, providing a great citrus tang without the sourness.  The diesel ends abruptly on swallowing and the citrus continues without decay to provide a lengthy aftertaste.  A well balanced and consistently enjoyable bottle of wine which has an added trick up its sleeve:  The wine is allowed to retain some residual carbon dioxide during fermentation and despite not being immediately evident during visual inspection, contains a very slight fizz (called "spritzig" on the bottle).  This slight effervescence pinches the tongue and wakes up the tastebuds, really complimenting the entire drinking experience.

After all this time, it is great that Riesling is still going strong and while the cruelty of the dreadful eighties wine continues to give Riesling a bad name, I am very happy you can purchase wines from this grape that are superior in everyway.  I am also equally happy that my father's taste in wine has vastly improved.


Monday 11 June 2012

La Croix Gratiot Roussanne 2011

I don't mind admitting that the French section of wine shops intimidate me a little.  It isn't necessarily the wine itself but rather what is written on the label.  The quality classification system used in France seems an insurmountable and confusing muddle of information that provides no real information or clue as to the quality of the liquid inside.  
I suspect this may be true of more than just me (or at least I hope so) and this may be why people pass on French wine in favour of recognisable and 'safe' wine.  After all, most people now know an Aussie Shiraz or a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is a fairly safe bet.  Who wants to risk a tenner on a French bottle, only for it to taste like terps?

If you do feel like taking a chance or are in need of direction, I would heartily recommend the Roussanne and Marsanne grape variety as a great starting place.  Featuring heavily in the Northern Rhone region in France, these two grape varieties are often blended together to produce full bodied, great tasting dry whites that have a pleasant floral aroma and slightly more advanced structure.  Marsanne/Roussanne blends are available in most wine outlets and even the conservatively priced bottles give you a half decent drink and a welcome rest from the usual suspects.

The word Roussanne is rooted from the French word for red or russet, which is the colour the skin turns when ripe.  This grape is known to be difficult to produce large yields but despite this, also comes as a varietal wine (we have already covered this word in a previous blog) for which the subject of this review is a good example.  Made by La Croix Gratiot and purchased from a well sourced and friendly wine shop in Didsbury called Reserve Wines, this bottle was in the £9.99 region at time of purchase.

On the nose the Rousanne is clean throughout, providing an initial and distinct scent of warm stone, partnered with floral tones and honeysuckle.  On the palate the wine has a smooth and almost oily texture, accompanied by a faintly nutty taste.  Acid is ever present but any potency is disguised by honey and sharp citrus, giving it a dry yet smooth overall taste.  The oily, nutty texture is the last taste to leave but remains balanced right to the last, making this a very enjoyable drop.  I can imagine that older examples of this wine would taste great, having had chance to develop and add further complexity to their flavour.


Wednesday 6 June 2012

Chapel Down Vintage Reserve Brut

I would call myself a reasonably patriotic man.  This week saw the end to the Queen's Diamond Jubilee celebrations and for once, the incessant noise of the nay-sayers and complainers was drowned out by the noise of a nation full of street parties, park picnics, brass bands, street processions and other 'community considerate' celebrations.  Love thy neighbour is still alive, and it made me proud to be British.  Something we don't get chance at too often unfortunately.

This being said though, I am not the sort to string up bunting or sellotape plastic flags to my front window to openly display my patriotism.  Instead, I prefer to show my appreciation and allegiance to the Empire in more subtle ways.  Like toasting the Queen with an English Sparkling Wine.

Enter Chapel Down Vintage Reserve Brut.  This is a powerful, sparkling wine made by a vineyard based in Tenterden, Kent who use a combination of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Meunier grapes, from nearby vineyards in Kent, Sussex and Essex.

On the nose I could easily detect juicy apple and crisp citrus tones hiding behind the bubbles.  I am advised that other aromas include lemongrass, fresh bread and wild strawberries however, I believe the chilled temperature of the wine, the flute I was using and the fantastically violent effervescence restricted further discovery.  Upon tasting, the first sensation is crisp and almost flint-like.  The bubbles assault the senses and make for a pleasing, dry and refreshing sip.  Further on, I got very subtle hints of raspberries and apple again however, the crisp and balanced acidity remains the star of the show, providing a clear and lasting aftertaste. 

You can get hold of Chapel Down from a number of places including Asda, Waitrose, M&S and good old Majestic Wines.  The price ranges from £15 to £18 and I leave you to draw your own conclusions as to where it costs the most and least.  You will probably be right.

You may still be thinking that us Brits can't produce Champagne, and you would be right - we can't.  We can however, make a world class, award winning, English Sparkling Wine.  That's definitely another thing to be proud of.